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TOPIC: Pro Forge Question..

Pro Forge Question.. 06 Feb 2007 06:53 #1

  • SlowShoe
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Hey mates,
I just got my pro forge installed tonight. I fired it up and watched it run for a few minutes, inspected the inside and what not. Looked real good. I shut it down, got it completely situated and let it run for about 15-20 minutes heating some shoes. Then I noticed 4-5 fractures had acured throughout the lining that goes round the top. 2 of them go from the base of the fire brick right to the burner holes (all the way up them) and down to the font. I was pretty disappointed to see this. Its got me worrying about how long this forge liner will last. If its fracturing already, after 6 months will it be falling down on itself?
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RE:Pro Forge Question.. 06 Feb 2007 07:15 #2

  • Bill Adams
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On my Forgemaster, the cracks looked bad, but when I relined it I found they were very shalow. I actually just turned the top piece over and reused it. I think I could have gone longer with out relining. This one went three years, every day every horse, even trims when its cold, you know, low fourtys high thirtys.Low sixtys today rode the Harley.
Bill

A rightous man regardeth the life of his beast. Proverbs 12:10
I don't give a damn for a man who can only spell a word one way. Mark Twain
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RE:Pro Forge Question.. 06 Feb 2007 11:33 #3

  • Derin Foor
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Hey Josh,

I have had my Pro Forge for 6 years or so and only replaced the liner once.... after about 3 years... it is probably about due again........dont worry about the hairline fractures, I doubt it will be a problem as they seem to be nothing more than superficial cracks

did they send instructions on keeping the door liner in place?

Bill,

the Pro Forge has a cylindrical liner so reversing it isnt an option

thanks so much for the Harley update :rolleyes: ..... mine has been sitting for weeks with this cold weather :(

Derin
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RE:Pro Forge Question.. 06 Feb 2007 12:12 #4

  • SlowShoe
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What concerns me is that the fractures run the whole way through the lining. I know that because I can see them run all the way up the port holes to the top.
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RE:Pro Forge Question.. 06 Feb 2007 13:36 #5

  • tbloomer
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Sounds like you had some moisture trapped in the ceramic fiber insulation. If you can get the manufacturer to replace the liner (and I would insist that they did so) you can avoid the cracks by doing a slow burn in with the new liner. The slow burn in means that you heat the liner slowly enough to drive off the trapped moisture without causing stress fractures.

Best way to do that is to put a heat gun into the forge opening and bring the liner up to about 250-300 deg. F for about an hour. Then fire the forge all the way up to forging temperature and let it cool off. You only need to do this one time because after the initial firing the liner will be "cured" and "set."

Most ceramic fiber insulation goes through a certain amount of shrinkage (1.5% to 2%) when it is first fired up to working temperature. Sort of like drying out a piece of wood. If you dry it slowly, it doesn't tend to develop cracks. Dry it too fast and you get a bunch of cracks.
Tom Bloomer
http://blackburnforge.com
302-222-6404


Here's the deal. I'm trying to keep it simple.
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RE:Pro Forge Question.. 06 Feb 2007 13:45 #6

  • Rick Burten
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Tom has offered some really good advise. I second the call to the manufacturer(Ive spoken with them before when I needed to replace my door liner and thy are good people.) You might also want to consider first calling the supplier you bought the forge from and seeing what they are willing to do.

My Pro needs a complete re-line, but the one that is in there is, I think, almost as old as me. :eek: I've bounced it around pretty good and like the old Timex watches, it "Takes the lickin' and keeps on tickin"...

Rick
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In the immortal words of Ron White: "But let me tell you something, folks: You can't fix S-tupid. There's not a pill you can take; there's not a class you can go to. S-tupid is forever."
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RE:Pro Forge Question.. 06 Feb 2007 15:40 #7

  • brian robertson
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Josh Did you read and follow the directions from the manufacturer? Usually, with a new forge liner, there is a certain amount of curing that needs to take place. Light forge, turn down gas pressure until flame barely stays lit (1-2lbs psi), let burn until all steam arising from forge is driven off (30min-90min), then you're good to go. Remember folks, refractory draws moisture, rapidly heated moisture produces steam, steam under pressure attempts to expand refractory and refractory enclosed in a box cracks when it expands. The key is to drive off moisture slowly under low heat.
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RE:Pro Forge Question.. 06 Feb 2007 17:47 #8

  • Anvil150
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I love my pro forge it is about 5 years old the liner is good still and it even went through a crash that totaled my old trailer . Give them a call they will take care of you.
A.J. Nuckles,CF
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RE:Pro Forge Question.. 07 Feb 2007 00:42 #9

  • SlowShoe
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Thanks for the advice, I will give cliff carol a call tomorrow. I think they are the ones who make it.

-josh
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RE:Pro Forge Question.. 07 Feb 2007 13:08 #10

  • Anvil150
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Yep, Cliff is good people. let us know what he says.
A.J. Nuckles,CF
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RE:Pro Forge Question.. 08 Feb 2007 21:30 #11

  • SlowShoe
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Talked to Cliff on the phone, what a nice fellow! I visit Colorado now and then and he invited me down to see how the forges are made on my next visit. Talking to him made me very confident in the product. He said the liner was a two part sandwich of hard and soft materials, the outsides (the bread) are a harder refractory and in the middle (the meat) a soft cottony refractory, so Im getting a good seal still. The liner is made under water so when the moisture is drawn out rapidly (sometimes just exposure to hot dry weather) they will crack, but it will have no effect on forge performance and longevity.

I also mentioned to him that my girlfreind picked it up becuaise it was the prettiest one. Apparently he hears that a lot, His reply was "Thats the difference between someone like us (a farrier) designing the forge and a design engineer designing the forge."
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RE:Pro Forge Question.. 09 Feb 2007 00:53 #12

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Glad to hear everything is OK You will love that forge. when I first met Cliff he was a plater at the track in south fla.back in the late 70's
A.J. Nuckles,CF
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RE:Pro Forge Question.. 09 Feb 2007 01:18 #13

Besides the crack how's it working? I got to try one of the early models and wasn't too impressed but I hear they're a lot better now.
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RE:Pro Forge Question.. 09 Feb 2007 09:08 #14

  • SlowShoe
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I havent run it too much, was in Ohio till Sat. Sunday I spent with the woman. Monday fabricated some mounts and installed the forge. Tuesday I had like a dozen trims (I ran it to warm my hands). I had a bunch of trims yesterday, and I got my foot squashed by some ****** blood with little feet (used the forge on his shoes), so I was out of the game today, and tomorrow I've got to go to boston all day, so I wont be shoeing till Monday. Saturday I'll be doing some trimming to make up for todays loss.
As for when I did use it, It didnt seem to get the steel to yellow heat. Just orange, and I had the shoes in there way longer than they should have been. What should I expect?

Hopefully I'll do some forging on Sat after I'm done with all the trimmings I've got to do. I've got a full week of shoeings next week though, not many trims.

What didnt you like about the forge?

-Josh
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RE:Pro Forge Question.. 09 Feb 2007 12:35 #15

  • Anvil150
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If you are use to a NC forge you will find the pro forge takes longer to get hot when you fire it the first time for the day after that it heats quicker if you want to get the steel hotter you my need to increse the pressure ? do you have a ajustable regulator??
A.J. Nuckles,CF
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