We talked about useing a buzz box at the last SNEFA meeting. 110V stick welder. The discussion was interesting. Advantages to the buzz box was portability, power source available, welds much quicker than Oxy/Ace and deeper than a mig.

Looked around yesterday, found the Clark 26 lbs that Amy showed a picture of at Sears cost 139.00. The Lincoln and Miller 10 lbs is around 500.00. I found a nice little one by Forney at a local hardware store 6.5lbs and very small 230.00.

Not sure what I am going to do, however I do like the idea of being able to weld something up from my truck quickly. Took the Oxy/Ace out of my truck a few years ago, recently purchased the Cobra (Henrob 2000) torch. Been useing this torch a little in my shop, much more heat than a standard torch. Welds like a tig and cuts like a plasma. Welding pressure is 4 lbs of OXY and 4 lbs of Ace. I don't want this beauty bounceing around in the back of my truck.

The problem with Oxy/Ace is the time it takes to weld, the idea of a buzz box stick welder sounds very practicle, quick and easy. 110V Mig has is Okay if you have a good power source at the barn, however if the power is not good enough the weld sucks.

Anyways, just rambleing on and looking for input from farriers with more experience in welding.

Phil I have carrred a stick welder in my truck for yrs. Never need it very much but it is nice to have when and if occasion arises.

Choosing the correct welding rod for the shoe's you working on will save you alot of headaches.

Also having a good ground .

Trouble with the small welder is getting keeping the rod from sticking.

I went to local community college and took a night course they offered in welding a few yrs back.

Bruce, what welder do you have in the truck?

The Lincoln, Miller and Forney welder mention non stick when strikeing and also can be used to tig weld. Look like pretty nice portable welders they are pricey though.

I have tried makeing bar shoes with Oxy/Ace and a wire feed. Wire feed works the fastest, however the current at barns is not always great.

Have not tried bar shoes with my new torch yet. Will try it and time myself to see how long it takes me. Too nice of a torch to carry in the truck though, so I thought of getting a cheap 110V stick welder, some of the guys say you can get one for around $80.00 and works great no matter what the current in the barn is.

The reason I would prefer makeing my own bar shoes is for a better fit. Do not always like the fit of store bought straight or egg bar shoes. Do not want to handmake and forge weld in my gas forge either.

Searching for qaulity, ease and low cost.

Phil,
Do you have a shop or work area somewhere at home? If so did you ever think of getting a coal forge? With that you can make nice bar shoes at home without wrecking the liner and have them be as pretty as Smitty's

Coal forges can be bought new for less than expensive welding equipment or if your handy you can make one for less than $100.
George

Phil Armitage wrote: If your sticking the rod or wire your current is two low for the size of rod/wire.
Phil Armitage wrote: You will have the same problem with a buzz box. With a Gas set up you don't need any power. If you want to develope a puddle faster with a Gas setup. Preheat the shoe in your forge.
Phil Armitage wrote: Get aweilding plate to place in your forge while weilding to catch the drippings from the the flux.

My Cobra torch (Henrob 200) gets a nice puddle from a cold shoe (5/16") in about 10 seconds. Besides that, after I stick the weld I can use the flame to fill, blend, and "pretty" the weld while holding the shoe in tongs - no grinding required for cleanup.

Using a weld brick in your gasser helps protect the bottom brick from flux damage, but the soft liner is still eaten away by the burning flux fumes. I haven't done a forge weld in a gasser since buying the Cobra. Even if I do a hand made bar shoe, I still make the weld with the torch. Yea, that's cheatin', but like Mackie, I do most of my resets cold too.

Tom B., that Cobra that you're talking about, is it the same as a Dillon Gun? It uses very little gas and doesn't oxidize or carbonize the welds. Great for borium studs if you're doing Standardbreds. I know they changed the name since I first bought one. The only draw back is that they are temperamental in a breeze. Regards, John

John Emsley wrote: Yes. Same one. I haven't noticed a problem with wind, but I suppose it could cause trouble.

I did buy the Clarke 95E stick welder. It would not weld shoes. I could get it to weld on really thin metal, but it couldn't even get a spark on the 1/4" metal turned up all the way, plugged in to a good current. Just FYI before you go buy one, I was lucky and was able to return mine. :cool:

Amy

Brian Purrington wrote:
I've used this rig on up to 100 feet of cord and still had good welds, here are some mods I've done with it. (110v w/15or20 amp breaker) I use innershield wire (fluxcore) this means you need no shielding gas. Prepped correctly you can get 100% weld penetration either with double or single "V" prep at the joint. About $300.00 at H.D.

http://s157.photobucket.com/albums/t59/wellshodhorses/Mods/th_S4020439.jpg
http://s157.photobucket.com/albums/t59/wellshodhorses/Mods/th_S4020436.jpg
http://s157.photobucket.com/albums/t59/wellshodhorses/Nemo/th_S4020028.jpg

Brian, great photos! What was the purpose of the 3rd shoe, kind of horse, use and material? Thanks, John

NHFarrier wrote:
Thanks Amy, this is good to know. I think the differene in these 110V stick welders is qaulity. The Lincoln, Miller and Forny are inverters and also can Tig weld. The Forny cost the least around $230.00, has the same specs as the lincoln and Miller 110V Inveter/Welder. Lincoln and Miller are over $500.00. I wonder if the Clark is just a transformer, AC voltage. Inverter type I believe is DC.

Brian Purrington wrote:
Your talking about a wire feed welder. I have a Craftsman paid around 300.00 for it, works pretty good. At the last SNEFA meeting a Buzz box stick welder was recommended.

Filling in a V groove with a wire feed works pretty good, learned that from a friend of mine who does auto body repair.

NHFarrier wrote:
No doubt the small welders aren't the best choice for heavy welds but some of what you say here needs a little clarification.

You can't "plug in to a good current". Current flow is the result of supplying a current path accross a potential difference. The magnitude of the resultant current flow is dependant on the impedance of the current path and the impedance of the voltage source.

The greater the cross section of the current path, the lower the impedance to flow (the apposite is true for length). That means that a path made up of heavier stock makes it easier for current to flow...it's also why we want good heavy welding cables and to have the welder plugged in to a source with large enough wire.

A given welder may not be able to provide the amount of current needed to weld heavy stock but if you couldn't get a spark you had some other problem.

Phil Armitage wrote:
I have an ancient 110 v (100 amp) stick welder in the truck and it's definately just a transformer. I typically only use it when I have to weld on the occasional clip in the field (big clips on saddlebred shoes) or maybe adding a block heel to a shoe that I don't want to replace and doesn't have the length to forge one. When I have a choice, I do that and any heavy welding in the shop where I have a "real welder" but, years ago this cheap thing was the only welder I had and I can and have welded some heavy stuff with it...made anvil stands, forge stands and all kinds of stuff with it.

100 amps is 100 amps and it should handle any weld where 100 amps is appropriate. There is some wear an tear on my old thing and I doubt I really get 100 amps...not to mention that the ratings may be less than honest. I'd like to replace it one of these days but it hasn't come to the top of the "to buy" list yet.