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TOPIC: Hammer Handles

RE:Hammer Handles 11 Nov 2006 16:08 #16

  • BS-Horseshoeing
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Mike, I have been working at a bright orange heat for the most part. My forge needs the jets cleaned, the fire is not real even, one side is more centered while the other seems to flare. It gets plenty hot pretty quickly and can turn a complete shoe orange in short order. It even starts to turn the door on the front of the forge orange if left on to long.

The heat seem to be ok, I can get the shoe out and pull a clip and put the shoe back in to heat for another clip and still have some color in the shoe, dark orange to red.

One thing that might help will be when I get my new future three anvil and power block. Maybe a little more stability from the work surface will help also. Right now I have a seventy pound NC on a metal folding stand that bounces or slides on what ever surface I am working on.
Ben Sturman
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RE:Hammer Handles 11 Nov 2006 16:58 #17

  • SlowShoe
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BS-Horseshoeing wrote:
Bill, I am using the tongs you sent, but they are not worthless. They seem to work just fine and fit the size stock they were made for. It just seems that I don't have enough hammer and tong control at the same time to keep the steel from moving. It will just take practice. I kind of like those tongs, they are comfortable to hold. I just need more practice on position.

It makes a big differance where you hold the tongs on the shoe. Go ver this with someone in the area. Best of luck.
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RE:Hammer Handles 12 Nov 2006 04:02 #18

  • beslagsmed
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BS-Horseshoeing wrote:
Mike, I have been working at a bright orange heat for the most part. My forge needs the jets cleaned, the fire is not real even, one side is more centered while the other seems to flare. It gets plenty hot pretty quickly and can turn a complete shoe orange in short order. It even starts to turn the door on the front of the forge orange if left on to long.

The heat seem to be ok, I can get the shoe out and pull a clip and put the shoe back in to heat for another clip and still have some color in the shoe, dark orange to red.

One thing that might help will be when I get my new future three anvil and power block. Maybe a little more stability from the work surface will help also. Right now I have a seventy pound NC on a metal folding stand that bounces or slides on what ever surface I am working on.

If your stand is bouncing around, put a piece of good rubber between your anvil and stand. This will absorb some of the shock and not bounce around as much.

Mikel
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RE:Hammer Handles 12 Nov 2006 04:59 #19

  • Mike Bailey
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You will like the block and will notice a big differance.
The nc folding stand is what I had for my first stand and welded it after the first week.
Mike
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RE:Hammer Handles 12 Nov 2006 11:38 #20

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Block of wood is best
to get the right height to work at

is stand beside the opsite end of horn
put your hands straight down clinch you fist

the edge of the anvil wil touch your nuckel
thats your height to work at

that wil save your back and you wont be so tired
the lenth of hammer is determined how you use it

first get the hammer balanced for you
Smitty88
John Mc Loughlin
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RE:Hammer Handles 13 Nov 2006 19:46 #21

smitty88 wrote:
to get the right height to work at

is stand beside the opsite end of horn
put your hands straight down clinch you fist

the edge of the anvil wil touch your nuckel
thats your height to work at

Hey Smitty,

That's the way I learned to do it as well. But a couple of years ago, I was looking at the head of an old hammer that I'd been using for 20+ years, and I noticed that it was crowned off just a little bit on the bottom side, as if I hadn't been hitting exactly square with it for a long time.

After I got to thinking about it, I tried a few things and had one of those "aha" moments. I never stand straight up and down when I forge. When I'm seriously forging, I'm on the b*alls of my feet and a little bent at the knee. So I changed the way I determine anvil height.

Now, I get into a forging position or stance, and swing my hammer as if I'm forging. Wherever it comes parallel to the ground is where the face of my anvil should be. I ended up lowering all of my anvils by almost 3/4"
~~Danvers

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RE:Hammer Handles 14 Nov 2006 04:21 #22

  • J.H. shoeing
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I lowered mine to, brother.
I can stand next to mine and hold a hammer and the face of the hammer will set squarely on the face of the anvil. My anvil is more finger tip height now.
Jeff Holder

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RE:Hammer Handles 14 Nov 2006 04:59 #23

Ben are you getting the shoe hot or getting in a hurry and pulling it out to soon? I do that when Im real busy then end up sore at the end of the day.

Phil
Phil Smith CNBF, CLS
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RE:Hammer Handles 14 Nov 2006 10:44 #24

  • Ron Oldenbeuving
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With 20+ years as a toolmaker, and now my time as a farrier, I've found the best length for my turning hammer is as follows. Hold the head of your hammer in your enclosed fist, laying the handle up the inside of your arm. With your arm bent 90 degrees at the elbow, the end of the handle should nestle in the crook of your arm. I use this for my 2 lb. turning hammer and my 4 lb. hand held sledge.
Ron Oldenbeuving
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South Australia

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