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TOPIC: polycarbonate

polycarbonate 22 Oct 2006 10:39 #1

I was reading the AFJ (sept/oct issue) and read about the use of polycarbonate as a hospital plate. I can see that the stuff being transparent has great advantages over aluminum.

Does anybody have any experience with that stuff?

Is it just as strong as aluminum? Can I heat it up and shape it to the contour of the sole and let it cool off creating a great sole protector? (And what about a reiner that banged the bulbs of its fronts real hard? Could I heat it up and shape it so the heels are protected?) Can I use it as a rim shoe without shoes? Just tack it on with those flatheaded Mustad PG nails? Can I glue it? Is that a strong bond? What glue to use? Can I glue it with Vettec's Adhere (polyurethane) or do I need Equilox (acrylic)? Is all polycarbonate equal?

Anybody?


Ronald Aalders
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RE:polycarbonate 22 Oct 2006 11:58 #2

  • Ron Oldenbeuving
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I dont think that heating to the point of physical distortion would be appreciated by the horse, as the temperature is about 135 C (275 C) :p, but it's reasonably easy to form. The heating has to be fairly well controlled, or else it will bubble, and then, become brittle once it sets. I'd suggest an acrylic type of glue would work best. It is very impact resistant (quite often used for machine guards). If you wanted to nail it on, drill some small holes thru first, heat up an old stamp and burn the holes thru, this will alleviate splitting when driving and clinching the nails. It has from 1/3 to 2/3 the tensile strength and hardness of Aluminium, depending on the grade of each.

Try this link - A guide to Polycarbonate
Ron Oldenbeuving
Accredited Farrier
South Australia

"What did they go back to before they had drawing boards?" :/
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RE:polycarbonate 22 Oct 2006 12:31 #3

  • tbloomer
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In order to heat-form polycarbonate, you have to heat it slowly in order to drive off the moisture - yes it contains moisture which turns to steam and causes bubbles. The other problem is that polycarbonate retains heat very well. So it is not going to cool off very quickly and at molding temperature could damage the sensitive structures of hoof due to the extended cooling time.

As a flat hospital plate, the material is a good choice due to its very high impact resistance and the ease with which it can be cut with a hand saw and drilled with a wood bit. You can take a piece of 3mm Lexan (brand name polycarbonate) and bang on it with a hammer and not break it. I know, I've tried. :)

Do not confuse Lexan (polycarbonate) with Plexiglass (acrylic). They can both be heat formed, however Plexiglass is not very impact resistant at all. The two materials look the same and have similar machining properties, but their relative strength is an order of magnitude apart.
Tom Bloomer
http://blackburnforge.com
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Here's the deal. I'm trying to keep it simple.
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RE:polycarbonate 22 Oct 2006 12:38 #4

Thanks guys, but about that heat to mold the polycarbonate, should I really worry about that? A 135 C does not impress me nor will it impress a reasonably good footed horse guys.

A nice hot fitted shoe would be twice that temperature. My hot fits are probably even hotter :rolleyes:

Or is there something I'm overlooking right now?

Do I understand correctly that Equilox would be a better choice for glueing Polycarbonate than Adhere is?

What exactly is the difference between impact resistance and tensile strength? Wouldn't you need both for a pad?


Ronald Aalders
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RE:polycarbonate 22 Oct 2006 12:48 #5

  • tbloomer
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Ronald Aalders wrote:
Thanks guys, but about that heat to mold the polycarbonate, should I really worry about that? A 135 C does not impress me nor will it impress a reasonably good footed horse guys.

A nice hot fitted shoe would be twice that temperature. My hot fits are probably even hotter :rolleyes:

Or is there something I'm overlooking right now?

Do I understand correctly that Equilox would be a better choice for glueing Polycarbonate than Adhere is?

What exactly is the difference between impact resistance and tensile strength? Wouldn't you need both for a pad?


Ronald Aalders
You remove the hot shoe after a few seconds. The plastic will remain very flexible untill it cools. You have to hold it aginst the hoof until it cools or it won't retain the molded shape. You will have to handle it with gloves too. Figure on 3 or 4 minutes cooling time. Do you want to hold hot plastic against the hoof that long? If you pour water on it to cool it more quickly, you will only be cooling one side, which will distort the shape due to unequal expansion/contraction of the hot and cold sides. For accurate molding, it has to be left in the mold and allowed to cool evenly.
Tom Bloomer
http://blackburnforge.com
302-222-6404


Here's the deal. I'm trying to keep it simple.
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RE:polycarbonate 22 Oct 2006 14:09 #6

  • THamilton
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Thanks for the questions Ron! I was wondering some of the same.

Thanks for the answers Tom. U Da the man!!! Why not submit that website in the editorials section for those wanting more information? :rolleyes: It is followups like this that I feel need to be made for those to truely understand the benefits of the original article.

Tony
"Nothing astonishes men so much as common sense and plain dealing" Ralph Waldo Emerson
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