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TOPIC: Anvil size

RE:Anvil size 09 Nov 2006 13:22 #61

  • T.L. Buck
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CordesShoeing wrote:
This may sound ******, but how can you tell if an anvil has a round or flat horn?? Here is a picture of the anvil I own...this is off NC website.

Is this a round or flat horn? Some of the ones I have seen you guys say are flat look round to me and I am confused. Thanks for any help you can provide.
-Chad

Chad, The NC has a flat horn. By the way, do you like it? I have been wanting one the replace my JHM.
~ Buck - Farrier


Main Entry: 1ex·pert .. Pronunciation: 'ek-"sp&rt, ik-'
Function: adjective
Etymology: Middle English, from Anglo-French & Latin; Anglo-French, from Latin expertus, from past participle of experiri
1: eX ... is an unknown factor.
2:...
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RE:Anvil size 09 Nov 2006 22:21 #62

Ya, its a good anvil. I am still learning(as are we all) about this stuff. But it has worked for me pritty well.

So is it easier to forge with a round horn? If so, why?
And thanks for answering my question.
-Chad
Chad Cordes
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RE:Anvil size 09 Nov 2006 22:36 #63

  • Bo Terry
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The new NC Cavalry does have a round horn. They just started making them that way this year.

Round vs. Flat

Only one shape on a flat horn......FLAT. All of your shaping is done "in the air." Endless radius shapes on a round horn.

Since I made the switch, shoe shaping is much easier and more consistent. You'll be a better forger with a round horn. :)

JMO

Bo
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RE:Anvil size 10 Nov 2006 04:27 #64

  • Bill Adams
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Any thing you can do on a flat a horn you can do on a round, not so the other way.
I once said I was thinking about grinding my round horn flat in front one of the most talented smiths I know, and he about had a fit. Since then I've learned a thing or two and wouldn't have one around cause it would take up the space of a good one.
Bill

A rightous man regardeth the life of his beast. Proverbs 12:10
I don't give a damn for a man who can only spell a word one way. Mark Twain
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RE:Anvil size 10 Nov 2006 04:43 #65

hmm thanks for the replies. Anyone have a round horned they wanna swap me? like weight would be preferable...=P
-Chad
Chad Cordes
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RE:Anvil size 18 Nov 2006 04:54 #66

I use the 70# NC Horseshoers Anvil. I made my own anvil stand for it using a huge chunk of cedar topped off with 5/8 marine plyboard. I made a flip up table for my tools that is hinged to the anvil stand.

The cedar is relatively light but stable. This set up has worked great for close to ten years, but I am racking my brain to come up with an idea to mount my anvil to my receiver hitch so it swivels out of the way and has an adjustable foot. I'm getting tired of hefting that thing back in the truck!

Cowboyjl mentioned he uses his anvil on the truck. That won't let you get the most from your anvil Cowboy. Your truck bounces, anvils are supposed to stay steady. Also it might not be at the optimum height for your swing.

Hot shoes are easier to shape too! I find I work more off the heel of my anvil than I do the horn. The hardy hole on this anvil has a nifty pocket to help hook heels when needed. and the clip horn suffices for me.

During the winter here in Fl I have to keep polishing my anvil because the morning cold condensates and starts the dang thing to rusting!

My mentor had this tale to tell:

What did the big anvil say to the little anvil?

"I've got a bigger dong than you do!"
To which the little anvil replied, "Oh yeah? Well, I get more dingin'! :D

Regards,
Kim
Regards,
Kim

Those who only consider cost, do NOT consider the cost to the horse!

The more we know, the more we know we need to know more! Ya know?
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RE:Anvil size 18 Nov 2006 05:16 #67

  • Joey Aczon
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What would happen if you used a weighted stand, and bolted down? I have a whole mess of 1/4" strap iron and thinkin about making a weighted stand. (about 40# or so) I use a 70# jhm with mods to the turning cams, and shape and set cold (i burn easy and often) I've done size 5 shoes without any trouble. Also how does oak do for a base? (I have some extra trees)

Ron, I made something like that for larger material I work with a full length sledge (not while shoeing though)
Joey Aczon

Over-specialize and breed in weakness... It's slow death. :cool:

"I never make the mistake of arguing with people for whose opinions I have no respect." — Gibbon
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RE:Anvil size 18 Nov 2006 17:10 #68

  • Gary_Miller
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Head 2 Toe wrote:
I use a 70# jhm with mods to the turning cams, and shape and set cold (i burn easy and often) I've done size 5 shoes without any trouble.
You may have got the job done by opening or closing the shoe and turning the heels. However I don't believe that you were able to properly shape the shoe in order to provide the optimal support you could of if the shoe was hot.


Gary
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Ride hard, shoot straight, and always speak the truth.
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"Our level of quality is how well our eye can see it." (Eric Russell, Oct 2008, Horseshoes.com)

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RE:Anvil size 20 Nov 2006 04:07 #69

  • Gary_Miller
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This was question was sent to me by Joey on a PM. Since it pertained to this tread and my statement I thought I would answer it here.

Head 2 Toe wrote:
I fail to see how shaping a shoe cold makes for an improper fit. Perhaps you could clarify your statement

If this was a light shoe no larger than a size one than yes you could shape it to properly fit all around the perimitor of a properly trimed foot.

However, you stated that you have done a size 5 shoe. Thats a pretty good chunk of steel. After you trim the foot and remove any destortions there is no way you can make a nice smooth bend in the shoe to the shape of the foot cold. The steel just does not move that easy no matter how big the hammer and how big the anvil. So even though you may have some what of the shape it is impossable to have a good smooth rounded shoe with proper hoof wall support without the shoe being hot.


Gary
Gary Miller, PF

Ride hard, shoot straight, and always speak the truth.
Gunfighter Motto

"Our level of quality is how well our eye can see it." (Eric Russell, Oct 2008, Horseshoes.com)

"Discover what it is that makes you passionate then grab a firm...
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RE:Anvil size 20 Nov 2006 04:41 #70

Gary,
I am going to have to disargee with you that a large shoe cannot be properly shaped cold. I've seen some pretty impressive cold work. It is just a lot harder on the body.
Wade
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RE:Anvil size 20 Nov 2006 04:52 #71

  • Gary_Miller
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Wade_Shoes wrote:
Gary,
I am going to have to disargee with you that a large shoe cannot be properly shaped cold. I've seen some pretty impressive cold work. It is just a lot harder on the body.
Wade
Wade
OK. Its not the first time that someone has disagreed with me I'm sure it won't be the last. I just never have seen any steel in this about moved cold where it looked good and provide good support. If it can be done I sure would like to see it.

See you around.

Gary
Gary Miller, PF

Ride hard, shoot straight, and always speak the truth.
Gunfighter Motto

"Our level of quality is how well our eye can see it." (Eric Russell, Oct 2008, Horseshoes.com)

"Discover what it is that makes you passionate then grab a firm...
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RE:Anvil size 20 Nov 2006 06:00 #72

  • Bill Adams
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Kim,
You should use the horn to adjust your heels its faster, easyer and you can see what your doing. By the time you fit the shoe into the hardy hole, you could be done on the horn.

Cold shoeing can get it done but not as good as hot. You cant get as compleet a job as with hot. Too tired to list now.

A rightous man regardeth the life of his beast. Proverbs 12:10
I don't give a damn for a man who can only spell a word one way. Mark Twain
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RE:Anvil size 20 Nov 2006 12:53 #73

  • Mike Ferrara
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Wade_Shoes wrote:
Gary,
I am going to have to disargee with you that a large shoe cannot be properly shaped cold. I've seen some pretty impressive cold work. It is just a lot harder on the body.
Wade

It's not only harder on your body but on your tools too.

I've always done heavy shoes hot but I did all my light shoes cold for years. Mostly because my forge was a pain to set up the way I carried it and I can't always work close to the truck.

Now I have the forge on a slide and there isn't any set up as long as I can be by the truck.

The problem is that I can't always be by the truck and with winter about here, most of the barns want the doors kept closed so it isn't enough to be near the truck unless I can get the truck inside...and, in most cases, I can't.

I carry a seperate stand also so I can set up away from the truck if I have to. My project for today is converting the forge stand into a cart so I can roll (rather than carry) the forge, stand and gas bottle in one trip rather than three. With the exception of a reset where I can get by with a bump or two on the stall jack, I've had about enough of cold fitting.
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RE:Anvil size 20 Nov 2006 13:15 #74

  • Gary Hill
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Mike that's why I like little trucks. They fit in most barns and good on gas. I carry more tools and shoes than I need but they are there if I need them . Wade, try flatting out a Country Pleasure or Plantation Shoe cold, never happen. Best, Gary
"As I see it, winners get the money - while losers talk of "individual goals" and similar stuff." Tom Stovall
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RE:Anvil size 20 Nov 2006 16:23 #75

  • Joey Aczon
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Gary Hill wrote:
Mike that's why I like little trucks. They fit in most barns and good on gas. I carry more tools and shoes than I need but they are there if I need them . Wade, try flatting out a Country Pleasure or Plantation Shoe cold, never happen. Best, Gary

I have seen that done, and in that case I would agree with Mr. Miller. Yeah it is tough doing a #5 shoe cold, but I am a obsessive compulsive bastard, I still do what I gotta to make it fit.
Joey Aczon

Over-specialize and breed in weakness... It's slow death. :cool:

"I never make the mistake of arguing with people for whose opinions I have no respect." — Gibbon
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