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TOPIC: Drilling and tapping

Drilling and tapping 08 Sep 2006 00:01 #1

Hey guys I just got the valley forge tapper and it says its a 3/8 inch cut but if i drill the hole with a 3/8 drill bit then try to tap the hole is too big, should i use a 5/16 drill bit or what? thanks
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RE:Drilling and tapping 08 Sep 2006 00:03 #2

  • Jaye Perry
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B&B Shoeing wrote:
Hey guys I just got the valley forge tapper and it says its a 3/8 inch cut but if i drill the hole with a 3/8 drill bit then try to tap the hole is too big, should i or what? thanks
use a 5/16 drill bit
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RE:Drilling and tapping 08 Sep 2006 00:12 #3

thanks alot, i am on the way out to buy some, any particular brand do better than others?
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RE:Drilling and tapping 08 Sep 2006 00:16 #4

  • Jaye Perry
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B&B Shoeing wrote:
thanks alot, i am on the way out to buy some, any particular brand do better than others?
usually a step type bit. The step will counter-sink the drilled hole for easier starting of the s-crewing in of the chalk used. Check with your local supply or call around your region.

Here's a pic, red indicates start of step
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RE:Drilling and tapping 08 Sep 2006 04:52 #5

  • Donald Ruff
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B&B,
You can use an 11?32 bti as well you won't have to tap out as much material.
I have not run into any problems using an 11/32 when drilling and tapping.
I would Countersink my holes in the stock then tap them. It helps out those littel girls when they are trying to screw in there caulks after about 4 weeks of wear on the shoe.

Don
Knowledge is Patience and Patience is Knowledge
Slow is Fast and Fast is Slow
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RE:Drilling and tapping 13 Sep 2006 09:42 #6

Donald Ruff wrote:
B&B,
You can use an 11?32 bti as well you won't have to tap out as much material.
I have not run into any problems using an 11/32 when drilling and tapping.
I would Countersink my holes in the stock then tap them. It helps out those littel girls when they are trying to screw in there caulks after about 4 weeks of wear on the shoe.

Don

Don't ya think concave actually really wants hot punching? I think having "meat" all around the thread is quite important...
Balazs
"And we know that all things work together for good to them that love God" Rom.8 (28)
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RE:Drilling and tapping 13 Sep 2006 15:21 #7

  • SlowShoe
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balazsborbely wrote:
Don't ya think concave actually really wants hot punching? I think having "meat" all around the thread is quite important...
Balazs

Do you punch concave from the back (hoof side) to get that effect?
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RE:Drilling and tapping 13 Sep 2006 17:57 #8

  • smitty88
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SlowShoe wrote:
Do you punch concave from the back (hoof side) to get that effect?

punch from foot surfice give 2or3 belts depending how hard
you hit

turn over you should see a circle line up with your stud punch
1 belt or 2 you should get a nice hole

make sure your stud punch is dressed propper
when you get the hang of it you can punch the
2 heels in the 1 heath
Smitty88
John Mc Loughlin
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RE:Drilling and tapping 14 Sep 2006 02:44 #9

  • SlowShoe
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smitty88 wrote:
punch from foot surfice give 2or3 belts depending how hard
you hit

turn over you should see a circle line up with your stud punch
1 belt or 2 you should get a nice hole

make sure your stud punch is dressed propper
when you get the hang of it you can punch the
2 heels in the 1 heath

Great, now all I have to do is find a punch in that size.
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RE:Drilling and tapping 14 Sep 2006 04:50 #10

  • Donald Ruff
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Blaz,
I have never run into an issue using an 11/32 bit and tapping wiht a 3/8x16 tap. There is more than enough material left in the drilled hole to hold a caulk very well. Atleast for 6 weeks :D .

Don
Knowledge is Patience and Patience is Knowledge
Slow is Fast and Fast is Slow
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