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TOPIC: Any advice on making creasers and forepunches?

Any advice on making creasers and forepunches? 12 Feb 2012 03:07 #1

  • Travis Morgan
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If anyone has time, I'd like some plans for making creasers and forepunches.
Copenhagen. You can see it in my smile!
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Any advice on making creasers and forepunches? 12 Feb 2012 03:29 #2

  • cyber steve
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Welcome back Travis.
Steve Turpin

"Never confuse a single defeat with a final defeat." F. Scott Fitzgerald

"No philosophers so thoroughly comprehend us as dogs and horses." Herman Melville[/color]
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Re: Any advice on making creasers and forepunches? 25 Mar 2012 00:28 #3

  • Frank Turley
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084_2012-03-24.JPG

A guy could write reams on how to design these tools. The photos show two views of tools that I have made. The brass rule is a 12" one. I put in a 1 1/4"D car axle which could be squared up and used if you didn't have any hot-work steel such as H13 or S1.

The hammer eye punch has a tapered capsule (like an Rx capsule) cross section and is 5/16" x 1/2" on the end. I like the punched hole on the creaser, because you can insert the handle from either end and change the creaser from right handed to left handed. When punching the eye, enter a little more than half way and then turn over, go in, driving out the burr over the hardy hole. You can also true up any distortion and drift with a tapered tool of the eye shape, maybe 9" or 10" long. Drift from both sides. The eye will become larger.

The struck head has a slight taper and chamfered end. Helps prevent mushrooming, but eventually it will mushroom, because it is normalized and softer than your hammer head. The business end is fullered, and everyone wonders why. I don't know, but I guess when Hellers was manufacturing them, the fuller mark demarcated the sharpened end, and made less work for the guy grinding and sanding.

The sharpened end facing the outside of the shoe in use, has a compound curve, side to side and top to bottom. The sharpened side facing the shoe's inside has a tiny in-curve, side to side. Creasers should not be dead sharp. I dull the blade slightly with a small, sharp file. The blade is crowned, so it can be rocked along like a P38 can opener, never coming out of the crease. Crowning prevents corner edge marks, because you're essentially using the central area of the blade.

Many old axles are medium carbon steel, so the business end can be hardened in water at a cherry red. Abrade the scale away down to bare metal and temper to a purple or blue (500F to 560F degrees).

The larger creaser pictured has a one inch wide blade and is designed for large horseshoes. My riding horseshoe size creaser has a 3/4" blade width.

The forepunch with the handle is a simple shape of a nail head, in this case, a #5 regular. It has fairly sharp corners, so it will give a rectangular countersink. The two hand held forepunches (stamps) I would use for toe weighted shoes. I most often used the one with radiused corners. It is not quite an oval, but somewhat approaching an oval. This shape has been shown to release the nail head easier than a rectangular hole. Long-toed shoers know that the shoe heels are lifted a bit and tapped down right away to release the nail heads, the nails being pulled one at a time. The other forepunch gives a lemon shaped countersink on the shoe, which is pretty much eye candy.
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Last Edit: 11 May 2012 02:16 by Frank Turley. Reason: correct tool terminology
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Re: Any advice on making creasers and forepunches? 28 Mar 2012 03:51 #4

  • Travis Morgan
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Thanks for the reply! Sorry I didn't reply sooner; I can't seem to set this damn thing so it subscribes me to every thread I post in.
Copenhagen. You can see it in my smile!
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Re: Any advice on making creasers and forepunches? 28 Mar 2012 04:03 #5

  • cyber steve
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If you want to subscribe to a thread, when you reply, below the message area where you type and the Attachments tool, check the box that says "Subscribe Check this box to be notified of replies to this topic." Or if you are not posting but want to follow it I think you can just hit the subscribe button on the thread.
Steve Turpin

"Never confuse a single defeat with a final defeat." F. Scott Fitzgerald

"No philosophers so thoroughly comprehend us as dogs and horses." Herman Melville[/color]
Last Edit: 28 Mar 2012 04:05 by cyber steve.
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Re: Any advice on making creasers and forepunches? 28 Mar 2012 04:05 #6

  • Travis Morgan
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I get that, but I'm used to every other forum having the option, so I don't have to remember.
Copenhagen. You can see it in my smile!
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Re: Any advice on making creasers and forepunches? 28 Mar 2012 04:10 #7

  • cyber steve
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you mean forced subscription where you have to opt out to not subscribe, instead of this way (choosing to subscribe). pros and cons i'm sure.
Steve Turpin

"Never confuse a single defeat with a final defeat." F. Scott Fitzgerald

"No philosophers so thoroughly comprehend us as dogs and horses." Herman Melville[/color]
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Re: Any advice on making creasers and forepunches? 28 Mar 2012 04:21 #8

  • Travis Morgan
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Actually, it's an option you have to select on your settings page.
Copenhagen. You can see it in my smile!
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Re: Any advice on making creasers and forepunches? 02 May 2012 06:41 #9

  • Travis Morgan
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I always wondered about cutting a clinch cutter in half and welding handles on each end for a creaser and punch; it works like a charm! Took a minor amount of shaping, but, as I have a half a dozen of them laying about, it was a cheap gamble.
WTH is the forepunch end of a clinch cutter supposed to be good for, anyway?
Copenhagen. You can see it in my smile!
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Re: Any advice on making creasers and forepunches? 02 May 2012 11:10 #10

  • DavidinGA
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Travis Morgan wrote:
I always wondered about cutting a clinch cutter in half and welding handles on each end for a creaser and punch; it works like a charm! Took a minor amount of shaping, but, as I have a half a dozen of them laying about, it was a cheap gamble.
WTH is the forepunch end of a clinch cutter supposed to be good for, anyway?

Travis,

I haven't tried it yet but, I was told that you can take a chainsaw file and make a good hammer gouge from that end of the clinch cutter.

David
David H. Van Hook
Last Edit: 02 May 2012 11:11 by DavidinGA.
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Re: Any advice on making creasers and forepunches? 02 May 2012 19:41 #11

  • Travis Morgan
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I've got an MFC one that's a clinch cutter combo. The gouge is okay, but the clinch cutter end is crap, and just in the way, anyhow. I think I may cut the clinch cutter end off and put on a wood handle. The only reason I haven't done it yet is because it's so pretty!
Copenhagen. You can see it in my smile!
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Re: Any advice on making creasers and forepunches? 02 May 2012 22:30 #12

  • Christos Axis
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Travis Morgan wrote:
WTH is the forepunch end of a clinch cutter supposed to be good for, anyway?
I frequently run into clinches undercut too much, pulled too much and seated too deep into the wall. The forepunch end works well in opening these without damaging the wall if you grind it a bit sharp.
You can also use it to knock the nailheads loose when you want to remove them individually but the heads are too worn or too close together to grab with nail pullers.
Christos Axis
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Re: Any advice on making creasers and forepunches? 03 May 2012 03:28 #13

  • Travis Morgan
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Thanks for the tip! I'm gonna sharpen the tip on mine and see how that works; been wondering what I'll do when I reset, since I got the clinch gouge!
Copenhagen. You can see it in my smile!
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Re: Any advice on making creasers and forepunches? 03 May 2012 03:32 #14

  • Travis Morgan
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BTW, I've tried it for the nail heads before, without much luck; had better luck using pritchels.
Copenhagen. You can see it in my smile!
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