Irish preventer

I wish I were in Ireland spending some time learning from you. Very nice work.

Nice toe extension(or foal I assume).
And Real Nice blacksmithing on the preventer but ...... do you ever actually USE a preventer?

Patty

not often patty
more of a forgeing thing
the toe ex and prevente where made by my brother ken

What nice looking work.

Smitty,
What is your process for a fullered shoe? Do you bump the toe? Break it down for me, if you would, please!
Jason

Hi all,

It would be very interesting to me to see some tutorials on what ever with a number of pictures showing the process, anybody game?.

Kevin

sorry kevin
i dont understand the question

Smitty,
he wants a break down of how you build a shoe. Like a fullered shoe.
Jason

hi jason
3/4 fullered mark off centre 8th to the inside
bump up a 1/2 inch into toe

make your toe bend mark with your fuller
on each side of your centre mark

where you want to start fullering
put your outside branch in

make your heel can be checked or rounded
what ever you like

then get hot again hem and fuller on straight

turn your outside branch
run around with your fuller again

put your nail holes in
only difference on your inside branch

you run the inside heel up slightly

all farriers have there own way of
doing it but it all ends up the same

some farriers over workthe section
some dont work it enough

hope this helps jason
i find typeing the hardest

im so slow its a laugh

if i havent made it clear let me know
and i wil have another go

Hi all,
Smitty,

The terms Hem and Bump I don't know the meaning of. When I crease a shoe I finish the shoe and then crease and stamp it. I don't usually finish the heels as lots of times I end up cutting them to fit. Sometimes I'll crease further into the heels to widen them.

Kevin

kevin
when you bump the toe your upsetting the iron into
its self

hemming is when you put the the branch of the
shoe on it edge come in at an angle with your

hammer and start forging where you marked
either side of the centre

your outside edge becomes higher so when
you use your fuller it levels out

if you did not do that your outside
would be lower

I had developed what I thought was a good three heet system, that I could build a decent(not perfect , but nice, nailable shoes) in about twelve minutes to fifteen minutes:
heaT 1- Offset 1/8 in lateral, quench to third nail holes, bump three hard wacks on each end, turn toe, mark out fullering for each branch
Heat2- forge lateral heel, turn branch, hem, three quick passes with the fuller, punch. hammer finish, pritchel
heat three- safe medial heel(thin), forge heel, repeat process for other branch(picture 1)

My teacher has me using a marathon process to build a speciman shoe every time
Offset a 1/16, but widen your toe marks an 1/8 (1 1/2 off center instead of 1 3/8 for a normal saddle horse front shoe)
Heat 1- quench to 2 nail hole, bump both ends into the middle, seat out center for sole pressure
heat 2- quench to 2nd nail holes, turn toe, set to perfection, hammer finish, seat out
heat 3- forge lateral heel, set beveled edge from footside to ground, mark out fullering 2 passes, turn branch
heat 4- hem very lightly, perfect shape, finish fullering, punnch, hammer finish, pritchel
heat 5- set safing from ground side to foot, forge medial heel, mark out fullering, turn branch
heat 6- perfect shape, hem lightly, finish fullering, punch, hammer finish, pritchel
I'm tired just typing it!
Picture 2

nice work jason

Thanks smitty,
My teachers work makes mine look like Diamonds. ( Do they have AWFUL keg shoes in Ireland? That is what a Diamond is--an awful ugly keg shoe!)
The six heat system is to inefficent for me to build shoes for horses on a daily basis, so I have not been forging much--just those two shoes in the last two months. I am starting to miss it, though. I have been using the Crothers, they are so easy to use I fear I may forget how to build a shoe!
Jason