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TOPIC: Hammer Handles

RE:Hammer Handles 09 Jun 2011 02:46 #16

Joey Aczon wrote:
Just saw that last night. :rolleyes:

Farrier Product Distributors has a good video about fitting hammer handles with Roy Bloom on youtube.
Cody Gilreath, CF
www.certifiedtexasfarrier.com
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RE:Hammer Handles 09 Jun 2011 03:00 #17

  • Joey Aczon
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Gilreath Horseshoeing wrote:
Farrier Product Distributors has a good video about fitting hammer handles with Roy Bloom on youtube.

Honestly, I think I'm fitting them right and I'm just beating the **** out of them. I'm also not oiling them and the last one was very dry.
Joey Aczon

Over-specialize and breed in weakness... It's slow death. :cool:

"I never make the mistake of arguing with people for whose opinions I have no respect." — Gibbon
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RE:Hammer Handles 09 Jun 2011 03:01 #18

  • Gary Hill
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Joey, I am soaking mine everyday!! This dang drought sucks the moisture out of everything....:eek:
"As I see it, winners get the money - while losers talk of "individual goals" and similar stuff." Tom Stovall
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RE:Hammer Handles 09 Jun 2011 03:38 #19

  • Joey Aczon
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I think the only reason this one came loose is because of this ****** conical wedge. I knew better than to use it, especially since I've never had any problems with the hammer coming loose since I started using the normal wedges. Even with that old handle being dry as a popcorn **** it was still tight.
Joey Aczon

Over-specialize and breed in weakness... It's slow death. :cool:

"I never make the mistake of arguing with people for whose opinions I have no respect." — Gibbon
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RE:Hammer Handles 17 Jun 2011 02:54 #20

  • Frank Turley
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There may be as many handle (haft) styles as there are farriers. I normally buy my second growth hickory, 16" machinist's handles from the building supply. I cut off about 1/2", just my preference, and chamfer/radius the butt much like finish trimming the edge of a horse's barefoot. To me, holding a newly purchased handle feels like holding the wrong end of a baseball bat. I always remove the lacquer and rasp, file, or power sand the haft. I keep the oval shape throughout, although the cross section varies. I thin the neck quite a bit, because I think it is a shock absorber, and it may even whip a little on the back swing. I reduce the handle area to fit my hand. I learned from a couple of old time smiths that they were taught to finish the wood by scraping with a broken glass shard. This leaves a smooth surface and gets rid of any grits that may have remained from the sanding. I soak the haft in a mixture of 1/2 boiled linseed oil and 1/2 turpentine. After soaking, the whole can be polished with a cotton rag. I live in arid Santa Fe, and the oil soak keeps the haft from loosening and shrinking.

I've talked to those who think that the handle should be "roughened" a little for a better grip. But after a little prodding, I found that those folks were hobbyists and didn't use the hammer daily, so what did they really know?

http://www.turleyforge.com Granddaddy of Blacksmith Schools
Frank Turley
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