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TOPIC: Knife sharpening

RE:Knife sharpening 11 Feb 2006 21:52 #16

  • Hoofangler
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Hey Phil,

To answer your question, yes, you need a muslin wheel and a sisal wheel or the felt/ paper/ 3m wheels that the other guys mentioned. I picked up a cheapo "speedway" grinder at a closeout and the wheels/compound from "horseshoes plus". The whole deal has about $60 tied up.
I spent the day alternating between sharpening knives and planing bamboo flyrod strips and found that the more I worked the more built up the compound became. It also help to "surge" the grinder when applying so that the stuff wouldn't spin off the wheels. Works pretty slick. My AB 'the Knife"s came out razor sharp, the Halversons are plenty sharp to work with and a couple of frosts that I did will end up cutting hay bale strings (never could get them sharp enough for my tastes).

Regards,
Mike
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RE:Knife sharpening 12 Feb 2006 01:46 #17

  • Rick Burten
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I use the muslin and sisal wheel approach, but I gotta admit I'm lazy, too. So, over time, I have ac***ulated a bunch of "The Knife" knives, and since I'm close to Anvil Brand and go by there on a regular basis, I mostly let them sharpen my knives for me. Periodically, I buy a new knife so my inventory stays pretty constant. Then, when a knife starts to dull, I give it a couple of passes on the wheels, and if that doesn't sharpen it up, I just go get a different knife. Once I'm close to having gone through my inventory, I just stop by Anvil Brand and start the process over again. :p
Rick Burten PF

In the immortal words of Ron White: "But let me tell you something, folks: You can't fix S-tupid. There's not a pill you can take; there's not a class you can go to. S-tupid is forever."
."


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RE:Knife sharpening 12 Feb 2006 02:19 #18

  • J.H. shoeing
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Phil

I have a wheel for each of the compounds. Although I use a sisal wheel with a 220 grit compound for knocking the rough edges off the blades, I have used a muslin wheel with the 220 grit. And it worked well, just didn't have as much "bite" as the sisal wheel. When you get the wheels loaded or seasoned with the compound you can use the wheel without adding any compound to it. If you were using one wheel and alternating between 220 grit and 600 grit by the time you got the wheel seasoned it would be 400 grit?. Which isn't bad for most knifes but if you really want to impress someone with your extra sharp hoof knife the nice polish of the 600 grit is nice. Also makes a nice smooth cut into your hand that leaves an almost unnoticable scar after the Doc sews it up.

Jeff, CF
Jeff Holder

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RE:Knife sharpening 12 Feb 2006 02:24 #19

  • J.H. shoeing
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Mike

I have not wet or heated any of the compounds or wheels. They have got several different kinds of compounds on the market. I really don't know much about it. I hear some guys talk about greasless compounds and such, maybe it has something to do with what the compound is made of or the "agent" that holds the grit in the stick or block of buffing compound.

Jeff, CF
Jeff Holder

Some people are like Slinky’s, pretty much useless but make you smile when you push them down the stairs.
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RE:Knife sharpening 12 Feb 2006 02:44 #20

  • J.H. shoeing
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I think I have gotten a pic of my knife sharpener posted!! finally.

Jeff
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Jeff Holder

Some people are like Slinky’s, pretty much useless but make you smile when you push them down the stairs.
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RE:Knife sharpening 14 Feb 2006 09:18 #21

Jeff;
Have you considered turning your grinder around.
The switch will be on the back side but, you will be working over the top of the wheel and get a much better view of your working edge of the knife.
I turned mine around from the advice of the farrier that talked me into using wheels when I started, so I started out backwards with it.
I would suggest that because you are used to the grinder spinning in the other direction that you put a piece of tape with a direction arrow on it, so you remember to turn you knives correctly, untill you're used to it.
WE WANT ALL THOSE FINGERS WHERE THEY ARE. :eek:
Leave your grinder off and make believe you're sharpening in the opposite direction. I think you'll see the better view.

Gary
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RE:Knife sharpening 14 Feb 2006 18:09 #22

  • Donnie Walker
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I also have mine turned around for the same reason, but in addition, in the event you hang a blade it will be taken away from you rather than into your hands or body.
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RE:Knife sharpening 15 Feb 2006 03:55 #23

  • J.H. shoeing
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I have used them both ways and I just work the blades on the wheel below the shaft or axis of the grinder. It also doesn't kick as much of the compound back on me. I agree you can see the edge of your blades better.
As weak as that cheap grinder motor I bought for this application is it won't hardly pull the knife out of your hands. I have had a knife taken out of my hands and as long as I am below the axis it threw the knife straight down and away from me. I do recommend a pair of gloves and safety glasses.

Jeff, CF
Jeff Holder

Some people are like Slinky’s, pretty much useless but make you smile when you push them down the stairs.
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RE:Knife sharpening 17 Feb 2006 03:14 #24

  • Andrew Grimm
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Hello,
I wrote earlier about how much I love the Scotch brite wheels and don't get me wrong they put a really nice edge on a knife. However, I just rode with a guy yesterday that sharpened my knives on a felt wheel and muslin wheel and I have to admit that it shaved the hair off my arm. I've never got my knives that sharp with the scotch brite.
I'm wondering weather it's a good idea to apply a compound to a scotch brite wheel ? Has anyone tried this ?
I'm convinced that the polishing effect the compounds have creates less resistance.
Please let me know weather anyone has heard about using compounds on a scotch brite wheel. Thanks
Andrew Grimm, CF, RJF
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RE:Knife sharpening 17 Jun 2006 21:10 #25

Good knives keep their edge. High carbon steel is much easier to put and keep an edge on. As you know, feed store knives don't keep their edge. Save your hard earned bucks and purchase good tools and keep your hooves clean.

I haven't used a buffing wheel in 10 years. For quick honing, I use a board 1 1/2" x 1/2 a foot long with a hole in the end so you can tie it to something like your belt. Wrap a sheet of wet/dry 600 grit sand paper tightly around it and then staple on one edge. You can touchup your blade anytime. Wash it when it gets dirty, rip a layer off when it's done, 99 cents a sheet. Wrap a piece around some 1/8th" welding rod for the hook. For more agressive repair I use stones. You can glue leather to another board, rub in some compound ( I find the green is best ) and put an edge on that you can't touch. Try using a loop knife with a pick on the back so you've got two edges, and by keeping the hooves clean your edges last even longer. Dremmels sharpen loop knives.http://www.caribooblades.com
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RE:Knife sharpening 18 Jun 2006 20:27 #26

I bought a set containing a buffing wheel and a flapdisc to be mounted on a bench grinder. Anvil Brand sells them. The set includes rubbing compound and spacers for different grinder axles.

Had the same set for about 7 years now. Use it after each and every horse I do, I like my knives sharp :D

Great set less than $35,00!



Ronald Aalders
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RE:Knife sharpening 19 Jun 2006 22:41 #27

  • vthorseshoe
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What a great thread.
I have gotten SO MUCH from what all of you have mentioned and suggested on sharpening knives. Great sites and reference points to visit.

Keeping my knives sharp has been one of my lesser skills and I was all eyes and ears when I spotted this thread.

Thankyou all
"you may not like what I say" !
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I thought my life had come to a close with Cindy's passing, but there is life after death Thankyou Sharon !

Bruce Matthews
Southeast...
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RE:Knife sharpening 12 Jul 2006 06:08 #28

Do it the "Kiwi" way, charge an extra 2 bucks a horse and buy a new knife once a week!! Works for me :D
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