New to the forums, so if this has been touched on I am sorry.
I have tried many things to sharpen my knives. And probably like most some days are better than others. But a good sharp knife goes a long way to make any day easier and a nicer job. Files of all sorts, sanding belts, sanding belts with rouge added. I am currently usings a buffing wheel with rouge I purchase from the local hardware store. Am not sure if theres a better rouge out there I might try. I usually keep about 6 sharpened so as not to have to stop to sharpen one instead of using one.
Whats everyone else doing for their knives?

If you are going to stick with the wheel and rouge method of knife sharpening, which does work well on the better made knives you should go online and look at some of the wood carving supply companies that sell alot of carving knives, they have everything to keep steel sharp. If your using 10 dollar frost knives its not worth the trouble, you can get a little 3 corner saw file and a chain saw file for the hook and your off to the races.

Here's the stuff you need-

Green Rouge-2 pound http://216.218.203.171/cartease/ite...il.cfm?ID=LA544

Greaseless Bars-120 grit http://216.218.203.171/cartease/ite...il.cfm?ID=LX120

muslin polishing wheels (2) http://216.218.203.171/cartease/ite...il.cfm?ID=WP858

Bob4feet wrote:

iJUST LIKE YOURSELF AT ONE TIME TRIED EVERYTHING AND STILL COULDNT GET A GOOD SHARP KNIFE UNTIL THE DAY I USED A SCOTCH BRITE WHEEL MADE BY 3M. THEIR ARE MANY DIFFERENT TYPES AND BASICALLY SOME ARE MORE ABRASIVE THAN OTHERS. I USE A FAIRLY ABRASIVE ONE AND A LESS ABRASIVE ONE AND THE EDGE THEY PUT ON A KNIFE IS EXCELLENT. THEIR QUITE EXPENSIVE BUT THEY LAST FOREVER. I RECOMMEND CHECKING OUT 3M'S WEBSITE TO FIND ONE THAT WOULD SUITE YOU.

I like the scotch brite wheel on my grinder too, its just so easy.Scott

Are these what your speaking of ?

Heay 4 Bob

here is a link to the best knives you'll ever use
there is a video on how to use there diomond chip impregnated sharpening steel to hone and maintain the beautiful edge

The steel would be a wonderfull asset to the sharpening of any knife all said n done

My favourate three are the discoveror the vet searcher and in particular the F knife

http://www.loopknives.com/IDKNIVES.htm

I use a small belt sander that I have mounted in my truck and use a fine belt to sharpen up the knife for me it works well.

Clare

Bob4

I bought the cheapest 8 inch grinder I could find( on sale for 39.95). I took the grinding rocks off and replaced them with two 8"x1/4" sisal wheels stacked on one end and an 8"x3/4" sewn muslin on the other. With the sisal wheels I use the dark grey 220 grit compound and white 600 grit on the muslin. If your knives are really beat up touch them up with a diamond hone or file and polish them with the wheels. I usually just take out the rough spots with the sisal wheels but it is faster to use a hone first.
After you sharpen them a few times it will become easier to put the edge you want on them. I like mine to shave a little hair off my fore arm before I start in the mornings.

There is no reason you cant use a six inch grinder it just depends on how much power you want the motor to have. Most of the farrier supply houses sell the wheels and the buffing compound and some even offer knife sharpening systems with everything already setup.

I buy the wheels and compound from the Texas knife makers supply in Houston TX. The grinder I bought at a local discount tool company. I think I have about a $100 in my knife sharpener all together.

I also agree buy good knives. I can get a $10 knife to shave but it wont hold the edge very well.

www.texasknife.com I think that is the web site for the place I get my wheels and compound.

Jeff

I use the tungsten carbide "micro tool" ( a machine lapping tool) and a diamond fish hook sharpener. Once I get the blade bevelled back correctly it just takes a few strokes of the Micro tool and a little rubbing witht the hook sharpener to keep the knives sharp.

I tried buffing wheels but didn't like the way they slung the knife across the yard!

The hook sharpener lets me get into the radius and keep it sharp.

I also don't have to worry about changing the temper of the blade with these hand sharpening tools.

I started out using the Flat Mill bastard file, then went to the round chainsaw files. Didn't like either the files always seemed to dull so fast.

Then I started using a one inch belt sander and used that for quite a few years. but a box of ten knives only lasted about 6 months because you take off so much steel.
I tried the muslin wheels but could'nt get an edge.

Then another Farrier with about 50 years experience introduced me to some Pressed Paper Wheels from "Razor Edge Knife Co." (405)677-9837.

You can shave with these knives after sharpening on this set-up.

I know of quite a few farriers in our area now use this set-up.

I think that these people are just a small home opperation but they have a great product. Call and they send the set to you with a bill.

I just ordered a new set but never asked what the price is now.
My last set was ordered 8/18/1999 , cost $26 with shipping.

That comes to $5 per year
sharpening 10 knives a week can't beat that with a stick.

I use frost narrow bladed knives and a box of ten lasts about 14 months for me.

Just ordered a set and it will include
2- 8"X1" paper wheels
a bag of Silicone carbide for the cutting wheel
A chunk of tempering wax (Lube for the gritted wheel)
Rouge for the buffing wheel

I learned to put the raw paper wheels on the grinder before gritting and running the grinder and, using an old rasp, round the top so it fits the contour of the knives better.

You get one solid paper wheel that you coat with yellow carpenters glue.
Spread out the grit onto a piece of news paper and roll the wheel thru the grit to coat the wheel. allow to dry 24 hours and dust off any excess grit.
Save all the left over grit for next time.

Put the wheel on the grinder with the other wheel on the other side of the grinder.
BEFORE sharpening rub the gritted wheel with the tempering wax while turning the wheel by hand.
NEVER sharpen without the tempering wax, the grit will be knocked right off the wheel without the lubrication.
Start the grinder and coat the other wheel with the rouge.

You're ready to start sharpening knives.

I do use the belt sander to back up the edge when I open a new box.
I don't like the steep edge that frost puts on the knives.

I found that if I turn the grinder around so that the wheels turn in the opposite direction, you get a better view of your work.

I lay out all ten knives and sharpen them all together.

It takes me about fifteen minutes to sharpen all ten knives.

You will be looking for a burr to form on the back side of the knife.
The back side of the knife is never touched with the gritted wheel.

Take your time and allow the knives to cool after 6-8 strokes so you don't remove the temper of the steel. You can always go back around again.

NEVER PUT THE EDGE INTO THE WHEEL, WATCH YOUR ROTATION
We want all those fingers for picking our noses.

Make about 6-8 passes on the gritted wheel and go to the next knife. when you see a wire burr come up on the back side of the knife it's ready for the rouge wheel. (if the grinder is not turned around it's hard to see this burr form.)
Once a knife has the burr formed lay it aside untill all kinves have the burr formed.

To polish off the burr with the rouge wheel, make 6-8 passes on the front side of the knife, turn it over and make 2 passes on the back side of the knife. You will see a little thin wire (the burr)curl off the edge.
That knife is now ready for a hoof.

Hope this helps some of you.
Gary

Maybe someone could help me out with this... I bought the Sisal/Muslin/white compound/black compound stuff and hooked it up on my grinder. Got all my knives lined up and started to apply the compound to the wheels but couldn't get it to stick. Maybe I'm missing the point but, what's the trick to using this stuff ?

Thanks,

Mike

Mike

The buffing wheels have to "season" a little bit. You will use about a half of a 3 pound stick of the compound before you get the wheels "seasoned". I used a lot of compound on my new wheels and now I can sharpen knives without adding any.

When you first start using the wheels you will apply the compound and make a couple of passes and reapply compound until you get your knife sharp.

I bought new wheels last spring and used more buffing compound the first three months than in the last seven. I don't know, but think that the felt wheels may hold the compound better than the cotton wheels. I used a new felt at a clinic and after we sharpened a few knives the wheel had some compound kind of "caked" on it.

I have tried to post a picture of my knife sharpening set up but I am unable to get it to work.

Jeff

Thanks, I hadn't considered that. You haven't found that they need to be wetted or heated before putting them to the wheel, have you? I thought I read an article by Halverson that said the white compound needed to "dry". Maybe he meant "harden".

Mike

I also have a question now. Do you have two wheels one for each compound? I did not realise that the wheels need to season, this makes sense, was wondering why nothing was sticking to the wheel myself.