Whats the best way to set hammer handles, pictures or good advice would be great.


Thanks,
Jarred

look up either Roy Bloom's or Hofi's techniques

yOU WANT TO MAKE SURE THAT THE INSIDE OF THE HAMMER HOLE IS A SLIGHT HOUR GLASS SHAPE.
reset caps lock
Then when you wedge the top it will keep the handle tight permanently.

Use gorilla or lapages expandable glue in the wedge slot and inside the head.

I had a rounding hammer that the wedges came flying out of the other day. I liked the handle and there was nothing wrong except it got loose after the wedge came out. I put the handle of the hammer down through the hardy whole of my anvil and tapped it out using a small piece of bar stock. I then finished the hammer head end of the handle on my belt grinder until the handle would slip back into the head of the hammer some what smoothly. I then pulled a piece of bicycle inter-tube over the handle to about two or three inches below where I wanted the hammer head to fit to. I clamped the handle in my vice making sure to clamp down the end of the inter-tube as well. I placed the loose end of the inter-tube through the hammer head and slipped it down to the handle. Then I pulled the inter-tube out and stretched it as much as possible. When you stretch it, it becomes much thinner and then you can slide the head onto the handle. Once I got the head on the handle I just let go of the inter-tube and it pops back and locks the head in place. I trimmed the excess inter tube off. If you do this don't trim real close to the head because it will shrink up a little more after you trim it. I used the hammer for two or three days just like that. Yesterday I stopped and picked up some Gorilla Glue and put down in the slot left by the wedge that used to be there. I've used this method to hold punches and creasers on handles but I've never done it with a hammer. I was surprised at how well it worked.

I use a two-part marine epoxy with chopped fiberglass filler. After the epoxy sets up. I post cure it in the oven for 2 hours at 200deg. F.

The epoxy I use comes from www.raka.com

900 HP resin
610 Hardener

Did all my hammers 3 years ago. Haven't had a loose or broken handle since.

Note: Not all epoxy is the same. This is a 2-stage epoxy that is meant top be post cured at higher temperatures to increase its mechanical properties . . . ~11,500PSI

Stand the hammer in antifreeze. This swells the wood and tightens a loose handle. That is car antifreeze

Hi all,

Forget about the idea of soaking hammer handles to make them tight, this is what I do. If you look at the inside bore of a hammer handle you will see that the are pretty rough cast. When I replace a handle I bore out the head so it's less of an hour glass shape with a carbide bit, the grind the new handle to fit the bore and tight enough that it needs to be driven in with a good sized hammer, then drive in 2 wedges on a shapeing hammer and grind off what's sticking out. The other thing is make sure you shape the new handle to you hand and smaller is usually better then regularly spray the whole hammer with a clear lacquer paint.

I know it is all a matter of personal taste, but when I get a hammer or any tool for that matter that looks to have any lacquer finish on it I burn it off with my torches. I repeatedly flame it with a heavy acetylene flame and rub it with a sanding block in between flaming. The result is a silky smooth feel that seems to have good grip.

Here ya go Jarred.
This is the best advice out there.
Roy Bloom on hammers.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8kux4JH67YQ

Lacquer bad. Linseed oil good.