I have done a few anvils it is a big event if you have more then one helper it is better the rod I use is called study biuldup it for buckets on equipment
if you cant find studie look for a high carbon low nickle (you dont want the edges to be shinny) a friend of mine used missle rod good luck john

I have a 280 pound Vulcan (cast body, steel face) in my shop that came to me with edges chopped into by someone using it as a cutting torch rest. I preheated by guesstimate and built up the edges with low hydrogen rod, That was nearly 20 years ago and I have one small chip in one edge after all that time.

First an anvil that was used by your grandfather is priceles.
If you have it done make sure the guy has done them before or get detailed instructions to him. Act like a DQ who is watching you shoe her WB.
Go to the blacksmith sites.
I think the key word is preheet. I have heard of the whole face poping off.

Joey, Pre heating should be done, don,t know about 600, I would have thought 200 to 400C. At least make it bloody hot to touch, so all the mositure is gone out of it. Yes a pre heat will help it "stick" Because after months/years of service the weld will be less inclined to break down in the heat affected zone. However, welding thorey is that the metals to be welded must be of the same material or very similar, so I would not feel right about putting a hardface rod straight on to an anvil. Hardface rods are designed to resist wear and impact etc., they never get used to weld steel together. So the adhesion abitly of it may not be very good.

If this anvil has a steel face and something else body, why not cut the face off and weld on a new one. There are free techical serives out there that can advise on weld procdures and welding rods, just be aware that there are a gazillon rods made so you have a great serlection.

Is there a crack in this area?

Mick

Jack Evers in gray, stuff deleted

I preheated by guesstimate and built up the edges with low hydrogen rod, That was nearly 20 years ago and I have one small chip in one edge after all that time.

My experience is similar. Heat the face with a propane pear (weed) burner until it's way too hot to touch (once hot, the anvil will hold heat a long time), use multiple passes of 7014 or 7018 to build up the areas that need touching up, chip and wire brush between passes, use an angle grinder and 24 or 36 grit discs to get everything leveled and square, then put a very slight radius on the edges to avoid chipping. Don't do anything to cool off the anvil when you're done welding and grinding.

As long as you're working hot iron, you won't need anything harder than low-hydrogen to build up the face.

Rob Gunter is generally considered the Dean of anvil rebuilds. Go to

http://www.cvbg.org/

and click on how - to hints for his words of wisdom.

Gilreath Horseshoeing wrote:
Definateley a Trenton. Probably made early to mid 1920's. But according to the stamp it weighs 128 lbs. not 400.