I have seen and herd many people talk about rasp and nippers but have yet to see any real choice of knife. As of this point I use Hall.


Thanks,


Jarred

i use the knife or classic anvil.

I use Anvil Brand's The Knive, Classic.

Tried a lot of other knives, and keep coming back to this one. And, its value to price ratio is, IMNTBCHO, excellent too

I carry two knives and use them both on every horse I work on. I started using a JH Forge loop knife a couple years ago and fell in love with its ergonomic handle. It was very comfortable and seemed to allow more leverage than a regluar handle. It's blade seemed to hold an edge very well too. I use it primarily for trimming frogs. For paring out soles, I use the JH Forge deep belly long handle knive. It has the same ergonomic handle and its blade holds its edge even better than my loop knife. Another neat little feature of both knives is small hoof pick located on the back side of the blade. It's too small to effectively clean out a packed hoof and doesn't replace my hoof pick but its pointed edge has a real knack for helping to pry or pop out the dry "false" soles I see during the dry months. The only downside of either knife is the cost. They're both pretty pricey at $75-$100 each.

Just as everything discussed on here, it is about one's preference and what you got used to.

I used to use Hall knives, they aren't bad knives. I'm not just saying that because my name is stamped on the handle. I prefer the Drop Blade with the long handle. When I used Hall knives prior, they had only the short handle to choose from. Hall makes a dandy loop knife as well, just ask Mr. Young!

Currently I use Yukon Forge knives. They are no longer made, and when the remaining two that I have hid out are used up, I will probably revert back to Hall, or the Delta knife with the interchangeable blades. If anyone knows where I can buy some remaining YUKON Knives, let me know. Right Hand in Straight and Curved Blade, is my preference.

I have also used and liked Frank Ringel knives, they are the Cadillac of knives, but with a price tag averaging $100-$120. Pinehurst (Tassie) Loop Knives that Red will suggest are double dang nice too!!

'The Knife' (Anvil Brand)makes a good product, but I am not fond at the length of their blade. Double S and JH Forge make a good knife with a hoof pick built into the blade. I haven't seen the knife or used it, but I have heard good things about Prairie Forge and their knives.

Try to stay away from Diamond, Frost, F. Dick, and Hastings knives. I'm not saying that they are bad, BUT I have seen many a scar on an opposing forearm where these particular knives have broke at the hook. Some folks like these knives and haven't had a problem with them, but they are on the lower end and when it comes to tools and such, you do get what you pay for.

Stay warm and Merry Christmas!!

Trevor

YUKON FORGE STRAIGHT BLADE



HALL LOOP KNIFE

Trevor,
How do you sharpen the loop knife?

Redd Mcintyre wrote:Redd,

I have a small rat-tail looking diamond hone that goes with the Pinehurst Forge loop knives. I sharpen the inside of my blade about every third time with it, but mostly I just buff the outer edge on my 3-M and Cotton Wheel.

I only use my loop knife for frogs so it stays sharp for quite a while. I cringe when I watch guys sharpening good knives with Chainsaw files and see before my eyes their knife shrinking in size with each stroke.

Trevor

I have all of the knives listed on the site below. I have tried everything under the sun and these fit my hands (large), reducing the leverage and strain on hands, wrists and arms (arthritis), allowing me to work comfortably, while achieving my goals during the exfoliation process.

http://www.jhforge.com

I use a Hall left, and a Delta loop. They hold enough of an edge, and affordable enough I don't mind grinding on them. My loop is getting short from using the handle press while hot fitting and about ground to nothing. I think once my loop is done for I'm switching to a pair of left and right straight razors.

T. Wm. HALL wrote:
You'd probably "soil" yourself if you saw me going at mine with a dremel and a chainsaw bit.

Joey Aczon wrote:Joey,

I have used the Dremel with the pink Chainsaw bit, it actually works pretty good, but probably shortens the lifespan by about half.

Those bits do make a Stihl Chainsaw nice and sharp, I have scars on my legs and nicked up boots to attest for their quality. No more logging 'round these parts though.....

Trevor

I usee all sorts of knives. depending on how my hand feels. But i kinda fell for the Double "S" they also make a knife cALled the rino that has a big handle and bigger pick on the blade.


also on the knife. i have noticed they have a classic and a regular whats the difference?

T. Wm. HALL wrote:
I only grind my knife every dozen horses or so. In between I use a heavy buffing wheel to buff in between grindings.

I carry two Frosts, one right hand, one left hand, I run them each down opposing sides of the frog. I sand the handles to where they fit my hands. They may have a bad name to some, but Ive had good service out of them, and I sharpen them about every third horse. I use my half rounds a lot to dog out false sole, I find it a lot easier than using a knife, but ya gotta be careful with them half rounds, or youll cut a chunk of sole out and blood every where.

Pine hurst forge loop knives are now manufactured by Dow Patterson on his own since the death of Paul Mitchel ayear n a half ago
The new buisness name id Duskey Forge

They are located in oatlands Tasmania
03 62 541065
duskyforge.com
These are a wonderful product

I have an F knife
a draught master
a discoverer
a vet searcher
one of there sharpeners
they have a very large range of knives
and you could do yourself no better favour that to get some