Ok i just got a new customer & she wants 2 of her horses with winter shoes. My winter shoes consist of dril tec along with pads ( i like bubble pads)
But... i think she may want snow rim pads which i do also have.
Is it possible to apply the dril tec on the heels & rivet a hole for the pads?? I find there is not much room on the shoe! I may also be using clips & a "rim" shoe. Just curious!

I have seen some guys use the last nail hole for the rivet.

I wouldn't but I guess ya could.

HOSSBOSS wrote:Why don't you just use studs? Works much better than drilltec and can be re-used. Rivets can be put in much easier that way
George

You can drill for rivets just at the end of the crease and place the drill-tec towards the heels. But obviously, you will need to apply your traction material prior to setting your pad, then just drill where the drill-tec hasn't spread to.

I use a total of 4 rivets on each shoe that I set rim pads on. It may be an overkill to some, but they surely stay in place and haven't moved as of yet. I've put on several sets of rim pads this past week, but only have pictures of popper pads.

Stay Warm!

Trevor

Another traction alternative that can be used with snow pads, is one that I use for horses that I shoe that go to rodeos that are on grass. (Pendleton Round-Up.)

I drive my 6 nails towards the toe, and on the nails that I use on the heel holes, I don't drive all the way in. I leave about 3/16" of the head sticking up, take my nail nippers and slowly twist the head a quarter turn to where the nail head is 90* (cross-ways) to the crease. I block and clinch, and the nail heads are a good traction device, but not too grabby. When they are no longer needed, they can easily be pulled out.

I use this in lieu of ice/frost nails which heads often break off prematurely. Quick and easy!

Trevor

If ya used an eventer shoe it would have plenty of room for a stud hole and a rivet hole. then if they dont like the studs you can easily reset the shoe with drilltex. that way you have a "rim shoe" with options.
Just a thought

I have never done it but I have heard you can glue the rim pads on and not rivet at all.

Jonathan Wilson

3m makes a spray glue. Just spray the foot side of the shoe and stick the pad where you want it. But I'm sure theres got to be some room for a rivet.

I apply mine in the the forge. It really doesn't take much drill-tec on a smaller foot(00-4). When you put the drill tek on the shoe flux it with borax. This will really get the brass to run like water. When it's runny bring it out of the forge and take an old rasp and push it around on the branch where you want it. Has to be done fairly quickly. Push the drill- tec up to the end of the crease and you should have plenty of room. I can go out tomorrow and do it and take a pic if you like. Best way I have found to cut the stuff real short is to stick it up through the pritchell hole to the length you want and break it over with a hammer. I have a brass hammer I use for this. I little goes along way.:cool:

Dan

T. Wm. HALL wrote:
Trevor,
That is overkill. If the pad fits in the shoe well I dont use any rivets. I havent had any problems with heels blowing out or anything.

Here is an example of my basic winter setup. Actually I used the larger d11 (Ray steels version of the mustad p11) in place of a smaller d13 because of the muddy turnout.

If the heels of the pad want to suck in, I will rivet the heels. Otherwise they stay just dandy.

Hossboss,
It helps to cut the pad correctly. I like to cut the flat portion of the rim pad at the toe. That way when you pull the branches of the pad inside the branches of your shoe, the toe portion of the pad will open up like pacmans mouth and sit flat on the shoe instead of pulling up in the air and popping your pad out of the shoe as you work on it. Also remember to cut the heals of the pad in a manner where they wont be in the commissaries on either side of the frog.

-josh