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TOPIC: drill press verse hand drill

drill press verse hand drill 24 Nov 2008 00:26 #1

  • solidrockshoer
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i have always used a drill press to drill my shoes. recently i saw a guy who put his shoes in a vise and used a hand drill to do this. just curious if anyone else does this and wondering if it works good or not.
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RE:drill press verse hand drill 24 Nov 2008 00:40 #2

I think it's all about control, and with a drill press I break less bits going through concave.
Bradley SaintJohn

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RE:drill press verse hand drill 24 Nov 2008 00:56 #3

I've used both a press and a 3/8 drill in a vice (my trailer had two presses and my "light rig" had none. they both work, but the drill presses are a bit more efficient.
Bradley,
You should try a stud punch for concave... makes a collared hole and works a thousand times better than a drill press.
Jason
"Always listen to the experts. They tell you what can't be done, and why. Then do it." Robert Heinlien
Jason Maki CJF, RJF
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RE:drill press verse hand drill 24 Nov 2008 02:40 #4

  • calshoer
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Drill presses are really nice but in my truck I have used just a hand drill for 26 years. Found no problems with it, but it takes more control and a good quality drill with a clutched chuck.
Patty Stiller CNBF,CLS
www.hoofcareonline.com
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RE:drill press verse hand drill 24 Nov 2008 04:35 #5

Jason Maki wrote:
Bradley,
You should try a stud punch for concave... makes a collared hole and works a thousand times better than a drill press.
Jason

Hi Jason, yea I do that for stud hole punching,
and good point,
but being that I haven't done any studs for a few years,
that’s not first on my mind for an answer.

I do lot of pads and wedge pads,
so the 1/8th bit is usually coming out of the ground surface,
in the angled concave part.
Bradley SaintJohn

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RE:drill press verse hand drill 24 Nov 2008 05:35 #6

Gotcha,
the trick, as I'm sure you know, is to mark the start of your hole so it comes out on the flay section of the inside rim. drilling that hole dead straight so it comes out on the flat section might be hard to do without a press.
Jason
"Always listen to the experts. They tell you what can't be done, and why. Then do it." Robert Heinlien
Jason Maki CJF, RJF
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RE:drill press verse hand drill 24 Nov 2008 22:38 #7

  • solidrockshoer
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I used to use a hand drill. I recently got a press and didn't realize what I've been missing, it's so much easier to drill through shoes with it and cuts the time in half.
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RE:drill press verse hand drill 25 Nov 2008 04:09 #8

A drill press with adjustable speed is going to be the way to. Not that in the right had a drill motor wont do the job. But with a drill press the work can be held firm and square to the drill. Plus the feed and speed can be set for each drill and stays more constant will extend the life of drills. Drills usually brake in drill motors do to side to side movement witch they were not designed to do, or because of improper feed and speed.

To set you speed use this calculation sfm *3.82 / Dia. So if you have and 1/8" Drill sfm 80 * 3.82 / .125 = 245 RPM. Speed + RPM Revolutions per minute, and SFM = surface Feet per minute, or how fast you push the drill in to the steel. I used 80 for SFM do to that is a good safe #, but it is a little slow. 80 SFM in mild steel with a High speed drill is a good safe #, but if you are using some kind of coated high speed drill or carbide this number could go up to 300 - 400 sfm. Speed will ruin more drills that most any thing else do to that is what is creating heat. The more RPM the more heat the more chance of cutting edge failer. You should be able to get the sfm for the drill you are running from the manufacture of that drill or the supplier.

Feed is a little taugher to control then speed even on a drill press as it deepens on your eye, had, ear cordination. I wont go into the ear part of it do to that takes years of practice, and trial failer. But for the eye, had cordination it is very easy. The chips first need to brake off and look like C and 6. If they are not quite a C shape then push a little harder a little longer. If they are more than a 6 shape then push a little lighter, and a little shorter. We I'm saying push shorter or longer I'm talking about how long you push before you let up to allow the chip to brake. If you watch a machinist run a drill they will peck drill witch is they push the drill in then eas up a little. They keep doing this till they are to the depth they need or drill through the part. This is much easier with a correctly ground drill set to the correct speed and feed. Then you may not even need to peck drill to get good C and 6. So if you are having a hard time with getting the correct chip form try a different SFM (RPM). If this does not work find a better drill.

The second important part of eye hand coordination for feed is the chip should brake of the drill steel colored. Then in the air turn to a straw or light gold color. This tells you the heat is going in to the chip and not into the drill or part. You should be able to touch the part and drill as soon as you’re done drilling and feel know heat in either. If you do and the chip form is correct (6 and C) then speed up the RPM to get the chip to bake soon.

Do not use cutting oil. This is one of the biggest reasons for premature cutting edge failer. It is reveres of what you may thick. The issue is the exact oil you are using to cool the tool is holding the heat on the tool. If the tool is ground correct for steel is should not need cutting oil.

For drilling holes in concaved steel buy a 3-fluted center cutting endmill. I would start the hole with a drill and then switch to the endmill if doing it in a drill press. But a center cutting endmill does not need a pilot hole I would just do this do to the drill press is not that ridged, and end mills need ridgedarity. If you do this and want to know how to set up the speeds and feeds for an end mill let me know and I will help you out. The speed is a little different as a 3 fluted center cutting endmill has 3 effected cutting edges versa a drill only has 1 effected cutting edge. That is why you are having problems with the interrupted cut in concaved. The cutting edge comes out of the cut with no cutting edge supporting it. With a 3-effect flute end mill there will be a cutting edge in the part at all times. Keeping the cutting tool stable. Plus an endmill can cut side to side as the entire side of the flute is a cutting edge were as only the tip of a drill is a cutting edge.
Kevin L. Wyatt Farrier

Wyatt's Farrier Rig
Indiana
260-318-5880
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RE:drill press verse hand drill 26 Nov 2008 03:39 #9

  • ollieolson
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I just use a regular cordless drill, but as soon as I get a better box built, I'm gonna get a couple presses. I like the control, and I'm always leaving my drill in my shop by accident.:rolleyes:
Luke Olson

Trust in God, but hobble your horse.
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RE:drill press verse hand drill 26 Nov 2008 04:46 #10

  • Gary Hill
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I like a hand drill so I can put alittle "pitch" to the nailholes on alums to conform to the hoofwall. Never understood why drilling straight holes made any since? I do see the benefits of drilling for rivets tho.
"As I see it, winners get the money - while losers talk of "individual goals" and similar stuff." Tom Stovall
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RE:drill press verse hand drill 26 Nov 2008 07:16 #11

In these days of lithium ion batteries, I am going to use cordless drill and cordless 4.5" grinder. I checked out the De walt stuff and it looks ok.

So my only workstation is the anvil, stick in the hardie hole the shoe holding tool, drill and grind away. This stuff doesn,t take up much room in your ute/trailer and I won,t need a power source. And save me a bit of cash.
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RE:drill press verse hand drill 26 Nov 2008 11:55 #12

  • Mike Ferrara
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I guess it depends what you're doing. I put on a lot of pads and I almost always rivet them. It's definately easier to drill half inch stock with a drill press than it is with a hand drill.

I have a press in the truck and I carry a DeWalt cordless. I use them for different things and I don't think I'd save any money by leaving one or the other out...BTW, the DeWalt cordless costs a bunch more then the drill press.
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RE:drill press verse hand drill 26 Nov 2008 17:15 #13

  • Tennessee
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Mike Ferrara wrote:
I guess it depends what you're doing. I put on a lot of pads and I almost always rivet them. It's definately easier to drill half inch stock with a drill press than it is with a hand drill.

I have a press in the truck and I carry a DeWalt cordless. I use them for different things and I don't think I'd save any money by leaving one or the other out...BTW, the DeWalt cordless costs a bunch more then the drill press.

Yep...and wait til you have to buy new batteries.

Jeremy
Jeremy Rigsby
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RE:drill press verse hand drill 27 Nov 2008 15:34 #14

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Gary-
You can easily put pitch in nail holes by placing the low side of a wedge pad under the branch of the shoe when drilling. You can also slightly tilt the table of some presses for pitch, you have to rotate the shoe for best position, it takes a little practice to get to the right spot.

I also carry a Ridgid brand 24 volt cordless drill, which I use as a power tapper, works great. I don't even cool the shoes off after I stud punch them, just grease up the tap and go, saves a lot of time.

Steve Kraus, CJF
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RE:drill press verse hand drill 27 Nov 2008 15:41 #15

  • Mike Ferrara
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Tennessee wrote:
Yep...and wait til you have to buy new batteries.

Jeremy

LOL, I'm more worried about what it's going to cost to replace the truck.
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