Hello,
I have a couple of questions...
First, can someone please tell me how many DEGREES the Farrier Pride W1,
W2, and W3 wedge pads raise the hoof angle?
Also, a client has sent me an article about something she wants to try with her horse that tried to cut its foot off with wire. Apparently there is extensive damage to the navicular bone and bursa. I have yet to talk to the vet about it, as I wanted to do some of my own research first, but have been getting regular photo updates on the horse's progress (from casting to now bandage free).
The article suggested success in these types of cases by using FOUR 3-degree wedge pads and reshoeing at 4 week intervals removing one pad at each shoeing so that the horse would be shod normally at the end of 16 weeks. I have no idea how to attach so many pads at once! There is no way the nail will reach the hoof through as many pads as they have pictured. Does anyone have any idea how to do that?
Thanks.....and sorry if the last part should be on a different board.
Abby

There is a way to deal with those without having to nail through all those pads , or even use a shoe. You nail one "double nail" pad (the kind used to attach gaited horse stacks to the foot) straight to the foot as if it were a shoe. (Trace the foot on the pad, cut it out and drill nail holes to put it on ) . Then just screw the additional wedge pads to the bottom of that with short deck screws,(long enough to hold but to not long enough go through the base pad) . Layer them up until you get the height you want.
The horse is not going to be ambulatory if he needs this package anyway, so it doesn't matter is if it's heavy, BUT be sure that you add a couple of tungsten tipped nails to the bottom if he is going to go out on grass or slick concrete.
Its fast, easy , not too expensive way to raise hoof angles enough for tendon laceration injuries or the like.
OR if you like high tech and more expense, use the EDSS with the tall rails and lower the rails over time. .

I have shod horse more than once using Mustad's PG nails and just pads.

On sorish horses after a trim or barefooted ones that went out riding a bit too far just a leather pad shod to the foot without a shie but just tacked on with PG nails will stay on for at least 4 weeks. Enough for the foot to recover. Than afterwards just pull the pad. Easy, fast and cheap.... And it works allowing you to charge anyway.


Ronald Aalders

Those are some spiffy nails there Ronald. I did a horse like that a few days ago, just nailed a pad on.

Ronald .....where do you get those nails? I have to use regular nails when I put a pad to the foot, and try to set the heads in or countersink the holes, which if you set them too far the pad may pull off, and if you dont set them far enough you get this: (BTW this was not my shoeing)

Well, this is all very interesting! Being in Canada, I have never seen 'double nail' pads, since stacks on horses is illegal up here.
I have also never seen those PG nails, and do not see them listed in either of the supplier's price lists that I have. But THOSE are pretty trick!
I will try to attach the picture from the article my client sent me, regarding the 'pad stack' and shoe she is referring to. Then maybe you can tell me how they did it?!

Pre-drill all your nail holes with an 1/8" bit rivit package together and use some #7 (or larger) nails.

Otherwise, nail on your first two pads and rasp the nail heads flush with the pads, then nail your shoe and the additional pads to the to the first two pads like the picture Patty showed.

Although personally, I would opt for an EDSS system to keep the weight as low as possible, then you can change the amount of wedge without having to pull the shoe.

A good rule of thumb is you get 1 degree of lift for every 1/8th of hight at the heel. So you need two inches of lift at the heels for 16 degrees or 1 1/2 inches to get twelve degrees. You could make a straight bar shoe and screw 1/4 X 3/4 across your bar (like a paten bar shoe) to the height you need and remove a bar each time with out removing your shoe each time. I would put a hard pad with some type of sole support with this method.
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That's creative shoe, John. I have also done it with just an aluminum egg bar, a threaded hole in each heel then then bars drilled and bolted across the bottom of back of the shoe . As I reduced the bars over the next few shoeings I just used shorter bolts.

Arkfarrier, it looks like in the article they probably nailed the pad to the foot, then nailed the shoe to the pads, just like on a stacked gaited set up.

John, I was half expecting to see a solid plate plasma cut to shape and tapped.

I have also done that one with more of a fishtail-type bar, but I wasn't about to try to describe it. I'd reccomend a spider plate under that with some equipack.

I find the dallmer ,dallric cuff and wedges great as you can screw on what and when you want ...

ray knightley.farrier.

Joey Aczon wrote:
If you look close it was plasma cut you know I am lazy that way. I did pull the clips and punch the holes in the fire.

calshoer wrote:


The nails are especially made for PG shoes. Flat aluminum plates that hold two different types of plastic stars. The flat aluminum plate is nailed to the using PG nails manufactured by Mustad.

It's used in trotting. I used it because it allows me to ease breakover where I like it. Especially on fractured sidebone cases it's a help.


Ronald Aalders

You can use the edss wedges on most any shoe. Just drill and tap for their screws. This is good if you didn't want to spend the money the whole package.

Except you can't buy the EDSS rails unless you also have the instruction video.....as is the same with most of the EDSS componenets except the IM. Once you have the video you can buy any part of the system.
If you already have the rails, and want to use then on other shoes, the little stainless screw is a #10 X 24 machine thread.