Howdy,

What is your preference in Clinch Blocks?

Do you prefer a square edge, or a beveled edge?

I know that some of you use the edge of Pull-offs to block your clinches. I was wondering if that got a nice, crisp block to the clinches.

A practice that I have learned is to hit each nail 3 times, bringing my clinch block away from the hoof each hit, it really squares the nail to the hoof wall, and makes cutting and clinching much neater and cleaner.

I have one from Bloom Forge that I really like that I have had for several years. http://www.spanishlake.com/shop.php?show_prod_detail=818

Thanks,

Trevor

hey THALL,mine is a JL.i bought it cuz it fit the hole in my NC cart.i can telll i like yours better.more protection and easier to hold.tell me if you would about your chaps/apron please.they look like something i need.-Gary

Gary,

My Chaps were made by a local Saddle Maker named Bob Doolittle. (Madras, Or) He has made several small items for me, and made my chaps about 3 years ago. They are based off of a chink pattern and while they are quite heavy and hot at times, don't pull on my back. They have a single snap fastener for the legs and a single buckle for the front. They are a little longer than most chaps/aprons are, (I don't wear boots), but they would come to about the tops of my boots, but again I wear 40" Wranglers.

They are 'old school' and don't offer any breakaway safety features. I had knife pockets shaped for 2 knives on each side. I carry 2 Yukon Forge knives (1 Straight and 1 Curved Blade) on the right and 2 Hall Loop knives (One small, one large) on the left. Along with a magnet riveted to a tape measure pocket clip on the left so I don't place all my nails in my mouth.

At the time I paid $225 for them and they are easily going to last me the rest of my career....with maybe a few resets on the mule-hide patches. I have contemplated getting something lighter and less hot for the summer, and when I try them on, they just don't feel 'right'.

I topped my chaps off with my most custom feature, my brands. A coat hanger on the right leg and TWH (connected) on the left.

If you would like contact info for Mr. Doolittle, I would be happy to give it to you through a PM. He is a great, great guy and has always done superb work. Some of the neatest, cleanest work I have ever seen.

Trevor

handmade pride wrote:
The 'Coat Hanger' brand has been a family brand for a long time. It has been passed to my Dad from a dear friend in Northern California many years ago. I am having a freeze brand re-made up soon to place on my horses ASAP as the freeze brand I currently have is too small, (Same size as on my chaps) and would 'blot out' if applied.

Many of the old cowboys would brand the fenders or cantle of their saddle so they would hopefully get it back if lost or stolen. Same applies to their chinks if they didn't have any tooling or such. Just a little rustic and personal touch.

Trevor

We are far from Cattle Barons. Brands being passed down are similar to heirloom Tiffany Lamps or Granny's China set or a jewelry/coin collection.....Or Papaw's Pocket watch!

Trevor

Can we call Doolittle and ask for the limited edition T Hall apron. Wonder if he will know what we are talking about? Nice apron

Those guys remember just like we remember feet. A while back I took my show chaps in for repair. The shop proprietor is in a motorized wheelchair from a motorcycle wreck about 20 years ago and has only limited use of his hands and arms. He saw the chaps rolled up under my arm and said "those are old". I asked how he knew and he said "that's my personal work and it's been a long time since I've been able to do the actual work".

Trevor,
this is the one i have used for a long time
i dont like the one with the handle

It just occured to me that what you guys do with a cinch block we do by not wringing off the nails and pulling them over before nipping the off, undercutting them and working them into the hoofwall.


Ronald Aalders

Surprised at you Ronald

Ron, that's not all that we do by using a clinch block. We are setting the nail heads into the crease and further tightening the clinch into the wall. As if you didn't know.
Tom I use a 5-6" piece of used rasp that has been angled both sides (so I don't have to check which side is and which side isn't tapered) and it works just fine. The hardened material holds the taper forever. I don't have a brand on my chaps, but I do have my initials embroidered on the same place as yours. Just in case my clients forget who's wearing them.
John

Ronald Aalders wrote:
Hi all,

Ya and still use a clinch block!

Kevin

Smitty,

What is it about the non-handled type that you prefer?

Prior to the one I use now, I used a 'Jim Linzey' block. It was shaped similar to yours, but aluminum, with a replaceable steel insert.

Trevor

Trevor,
just like the feel that nothing is raped around my fingers

smitty88 wrote:
I use my pull-offs. A lot of the vibration goes down the riens instead of ending up in my hand. i have enough arthritic changes without adding more. Changed about 15 years ago.