Horseshoes.com | Your One-Stop Farrier and Hoofcare Portal - HorseShoes.com

Welcome, Guest

TOPIC: tempering pritchells

RE:tempering pritchells 15 Dec 2008 04:48 #31

SlowShoe OFFLINE Master Posts: 3229 Thank you received: 2 Karma: 0	Smitty, Can we some pictures of your pritchels? Thanks! josh
	www.hoofwork.com The administrator has disabled public write access.

RE:tempering pritchells 15 Dec 2008 06:24 #32

Red Amor OFFLINE Master Posts: 3358 Thank you received: 22 Karma: 5	Yeah Smitty Can we some ;)
	Mark Anthony Amor If we want anymore excrement like that outta you we'll squeese ya head Mind how ya go now The administrator has disabled public write access.

RE:tempering pritchells 15 Dec 2008 09:32 #33

smitty88 OFFLINE Guru Posts: 6951 Thank you received: 64 Karma: 13
	Smitty88 John Mc Loughlin The administrator has disabled public write access.

RE:tempering pritchells 15 Dec 2008 09:37 #34

Red Amor OFFLINE Master Posts: 3358 Thank you received: 22 Karma: 5	Fanks smiffy yeah:D;)
	Mark Anthony Amor If we want anymore excrement like that outta you we'll squeese ya head Mind how ya go now The administrator has disabled public write access.

RE:tempering pritchells 15 Dec 2008 13:31 #35

Tom Stovall CJF
OFFLINE
Master
Posts: 3882
Thank you received: 1
Karma: 0

smitty88 wrote:

Smitty,

Your head stamp and pritchel are beautiful!

The head stamp appears to have been welded and re-welded to the handle. When different kinds of steel are used on an impact tool (e.g., tool steel + mild steel), it's sometimes difficult to keep the two parts together using conventional welding methods. If you have access to a TIG machine and some silicon-bronze filler rod, you can join dissimilar steels with a high degree of success, probably because silicon-bronze is softer than steel.

IME, when a weld fails on a handled head stamp, the pieces part company suddenly and completly - the head flies off and you're left holding the handle, trying to figure out where'n hell the head went. On the other hand, if the pieces are joined with silicon-bronze filler rod, the incidence of joinery failures is reduced and any failures take place at a much slower rate, usually in the form of a crack that gets larger each time the tool is used. Because the crack is visible and changes the feel of the tool, you'll be warned you need to reattach the head to the handle before the head hits the wall of the shop or some innocent onlooker.

Tom Stovall, CJF
"The only foolish question is the one left unasked."

The administrator has disabled public write access.

RE:tempering pritchells 15 Dec 2008 16:58 #36

Jason Maki OFFLINE Master Posts: 2260 Karma: 1	I,ve also had good luck when my dad welds the h13 stamp heads to mild steel handles with a stainless rod--he says the penetrations are not equal but the stainless has enough flex not to break. Once he started stickin' em thusly, I've never lost one. Just another option Jason
	"Always listen to the experts. They tell you what can't be done, and why. Then do it." Robert Heinlien Jason Maki CJF, RJF The administrator has disabled public write access.

RE:tempering pritchells 15 Dec 2008 17:00 #37

George Geist OFFLINE Master Posts: 3336 Thank you received: 3 Karma: 3	calshoer wrote: Students usually have cheap 'Diamonds'. I have mostly Bloom Forge's. Punch and toolmaking is a basic and essential skill that should be taught first. Yours and especially your students should be making their own:rolleyes: George
	For another fun place to play........ www.horseshoersforum.invisionzone.com Come over and say hello. The administrator has disabled public write access.

RE:tempering pritchells 15 Dec 2008 23:39 #38

Bill Adams OFFLINE Master Posts: 4185 Thank you received: 9 Karma: 6	Someone drilled small holes in the handle just by the stamp head and so I did too the last time I reatached mine. So far, so good. What is the best steel to use for stamps and prichells, S7 or H13?
	A rightous man regardeth the life of his beast. Proverbs 12:10 I don't give a damn for a man who can only spell a word one way. Mark Twain The administrator has disabled public write access.

RE:tempering pritchells 16 Dec 2008 00:48 #39

brian robertson OFFLINE Master Posts: 1327 Thank you received: 22 Karma: 3	the S in S7 stands for shock resistance. H series steel refers to heat resistance.
	The administrator has disabled public write access.

RE:tempering pritchells 16 Dec 2008 01:29 #40

T.N. Trosin OFFLINE Very Senior Member Posts: 738 Karma: 0	Bill Adams wrote: So far, so good. What is the best steel to use for stamps and prichells, S7 or H13? Way to go Bill, why don't you ask "Natural Balance or Traditional", geez.
	Soliceter General Warning: This message may not have been spell checked for your protection Just a piece of advice, think to yourself is this something I would say in front of a client, before your click the submit button. The administrator has disabled public write access.

RE:tempering pritchells 16 Dec 2008 02:57 #41

Bill Adams
OFFLINE
Master
Posts: 4185
Thank you received: 9
Karma: 6

T.N. Trosin wrote:

Way to go Bill, why don't you ask "Natural Balance or Traditional", geez.

Fine.
Traditionaly, witch type of steel provides a more natrualy ballanced prichell?

As it can be deduced from my question, I want to make some more tools in addition to those I have already made. I was given the iron to make the ones I have so I dont know what I have.
If I wanted to cause trouble, or more trouble as it were, I would ask why someone would build shoes with out building their own tools.

Meanwhile, which steel works better for you all?

A rightous man regardeth the life of his beast. Proverbs 12:10
I don't give a damn for a man who can only spell a word one way. Mark Twain

The administrator has disabled public write access.

RE:tempering pritchells 16 Dec 2008 03:11 #42

Jaye Perry
OFFLINE
Guru
Posts: 5653
Thank you received: 1
Karma: 0

Bill Adams wrote:

Fine.
Traditionaly, witch type of steel provides a more natrualy ballanced prichell?

As it can be deduced from my question, I want to make some more tools in addition to those I have already made. I was given the iron to make the ones I have so I dont know what I have.
If I wanted to cause trouble, or more trouble as it were, I would ask why someone would build shoes with out building their own tools.

Meanwhile, which steel works better for you all?

Easy brother Bill; Trosin is famous now.

The administrator has disabled public write access.

RE:tempering pritchells 16 Dec 2008 03:22 #43

brian robertson
OFFLINE
Master
Posts: 1327
Thank you received: 22
Karma: 3

To be more clear...
a pritchel is a "struck" punch, it recieves a lot of SHOCK from hammer blows and should ONLY be used at a BLACK heat and you're only punching out about 1/16" of steel use S7.

if you are slitting the eye for a wood handled creaser or hammer use H13 because the material is HOT, the tool will rapidly get HOT and it should not deform because of the heat it absorbs while slitting. Just don't leave it in there all day.

The administrator has disabled public write access.

RE:tempering pritchells 16 Dec 2008 04:45 #44

Bill Adams OFFLINE Master Posts: 4185 Thank you received: 9 Karma: 6	Thanks Brian, that was put very well and helps me out. Jaye, So I knew tom way back before he was all that?
	A rightous man regardeth the life of his beast. Proverbs 12:10 I don't give a damn for a man who can only spell a word one way. Mark Twain The administrator has disabled public write access.

RE:tempering pritchells 16 Dec 2008 05:54 #45

T.N. Trosin
OFFLINE
Very Senior Member
Posts: 738
Karma: 0

Bill Adams wrote:

Fine.
Traditionaly, witch type of steel provides a more natrualy ballanced prichell?

As it can be deduced from my question, I want to make some more tools in addition to those I have already made. I was given the iron to make the ones I have so I dont know what I have.
If I wanted to cause trouble, or more trouble as it were, I would ask why someone would build shoes with out building their own tools.

Meanwhile, which steel works better for you all?

brian robertson wrote:

To be more clear...
a pritchel is a "struck" punch, it recieves a lot of SHOCK from hammer blows and should ONLY be used at a BLACK heat and you're only punching out about 1/16" of steel use S7.

I agree with Brian as far as the shock a pritchel recieves but I have found that for me at least H 13 holds up better. While I don't make a bunch of punches I have benifited from time in Mr. Haight's shop where I was able to produce some punches and pritchels all out of H-13. The problem with H 13 as I understand it is that it needs to be heat treated. Fortunatly for me after I was finshed with the building I could leave them with Gordon and he would heat treat them for me and get them back to me after the process was finished. Since then I have re worked them a time or two, of course messing up the heat treatment but they seem to hold up fine. The nice thing about S7 though is that it is tough, and if you haven't built pritchels it's a good stock to work on though.

Brian continues]if you are slitting the eye for a wood handled creaser or hammer use H13 because the material is HOT, the tool will rapidly get HOT and it should not deform because of the heat it absorbs while slitting. Just don't leave it in there all day.[/QUOTE]
Brian echo's what I have been told.

[QUOTE=Jaye Perry wrote:

Easy brother Bill; Trosin is famous now.

I am? News to me Mr. Perry.

Soliceter General Warning: This message may not have been spell checked for your protection
Just a piece of advice, think to yourself is this something I would say in front of a client, before your click the submit button.

The administrator has disabled public write access.