I use on air cooled tool steel pritchel and change the shape sometimes one or two time in a work day ...not for handmades ,but i have had it 3 years now ,,not sure what it was before ,,,no tempering needed and it stands well without warping at all ..


one tip i found great was a coke can ,,,nailholes made in it with the nails you use then shape your pritchel (s) using the holes to check the shape ...

ray knightley..farrier:)

When I said grinder, I wasn't very clear.
I meant a flat, *very fine* sanding disc on one side of the grinder. And I am very careful to not get them very hot on it. I do touch them up with the mammer mostly, but sometimes the edges need a little clean up too.
And when a student forgets that there is actually a pritchell HOLE on his or her anvil, they need to re-forge the tips.

Thanks everyone, I am sure other farriers learned something from this thread too.

Patty , is Tool Maintence part of your schooling program?

Jake Whitman wrote:
Dressing up stamps and pritchels are very basic stuff
its strange to see alot of people on here dont have a clue


useing grinders and the likes
i think we need an online appsip course starting from

day one on the job thread

break it up into stages giv 1 month to each

stages you might have a bit of head way in 2 years

and if you were to join in it would be a help only thread

smitty88 wrote:


Uhm, well Smitty if there's anyone here that can enlighten a lot of people on this subject it's you. So what about a step by step how to kind of photo shoot and post it here?


Ronald Aalders

Dident know what way to take that one Ron

calshoer wrote:

Darn female farriers have all the advantages..................


Dave

smitty88 wrote:

Do a step by step course, you know how to post those nice big pics, suggest some s**** materials (I use discarded pistons from hydraulic car suspensions), how long the taper should be, remind them a pritchel tip is not square but elongated, some basics on hardening and maybe throw in a tip like its easier to straighten out a pritchel tip than to reforge one after it broke off. Stuff like that.


Ronald Aalders

Just so ya'll know, instead of posting long series of photos here on the forums, the new RC site has a section devoted to you being able to put up photos and videos demonstrating stuff. I'm sure you'll find it very useful.

Baron

For a second Barron when i seen your name at the end of this thread
i said to myself he not cloaseing the pritchels thread

Of course.
In the college program it was a more minor part, touched on only lightly because of time limitations for the practical aspects. (only 15 Saturdays total including all the live trimming and shoeing, one of the reasons I quit the college . )
We went over pritichell sizes and shapes, maintaing the tips, safe use, punches, knife hammer and rasp care, tongs etc. Basic stuff.
Now that I will be teaching a full time course (through ELPO) it will be a larger part because we will have more time available in the shop. (and actually have a shop..something the college did not have) .

Cyber Farrier wrote:
were is the new RC site?

This past week I went to the AFA Team hands on clinic in NC. Troy Price taught me how to tune up my tools. He used a belt sander on my fore punches but used my hammer for my pritchels. He first heated it up to an orange heat. Stop working it when the color starts to leave. He packed the end first. Next heat he forged it keeping it level with the face of the anvil. He heated it up one more time,brushrd it and he laid it down in my truck where it was out of the way to let it air cool. After it was fully cooled off I dipped it into some Forshners and used it. I since have done this with my other pritchels and it works great.

yep thats the way i do it

you need to have the tip of your pritchel the same shape
for about 2"+ back so you get a true nail-hole

so you wont get in different nail-holes
your stamp has to be right also

When working concavei normally hit the stamp twice and the pritchel once
to get consistant holes

plain-samp is a bit different