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TOPIC: Clinches

Clinches 21 Aug 2005 20:57 #1

  • NHFarrier
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Anyone have any tips on making better, smaller clinches? My clinches always come out so big. By 6 weeks, they are popping and looking really messy, though the shoe is still on good and tight. I tried using a gouge, to set the clinches into the wall better, but it didn't make too much of a difference. If I rasp the nail end down too much, when I bend it over, it "shears" off and it doesn't leave a clinch....I am using a pair of GE old style clinchers (not the new low-nail clinchers), which are pretty new. How do you make a nice, small, efficient, tidy clinch?

Amy
Unless you're the lead dog, the view never changes.
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RE:Clinches 21 Aug 2005 21:52 #2

  • SlowShoe
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Amy,
Amy the key to makeing your clinch size is to make the nail shorter before clinching it. Rasp the nail down a bit more beofre clinching. Also you may not be starting your gouge down low enough, so the nail is not seating in the hole completly. I dont ussually use a gouge unless I think i have to. If I cant get under the nail with a rasp, or the horse thows shoes sometimes the gouge will help more of the nail to be in the clinch becuase it seats it deaper. Or on show shoes, picky customers ect.. They come out without a big rasp line ussually for me. A larger clinch will hold a little better, but a smaller clinch may prevent the horse from ripping his hoof apart. Are you pullikng the nail down too much with your clinchers? Have you tried hammer clinching? That may not be your key as the clinches sometimes have to be longer to 'get' them with the hammer.

-josh

PS: I say if your shoes are staying on, and your horse is not cutting his oposite ankle on the clinches, dont change a thing. Your doing just fine =]
________
Toyota Crown Majesta History
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RE:Clinches 21 Aug 2005 22:24 #3

  • Bill Adams
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I do all hammer clinching. What you can do till you get the hang of it is to knock the clinch about half way down then gouge under it then rasp it short and square and clean up the gouge a bit then hammer the clinch home.
When hammering tou have to have a clinch block under the nail every hit. Knock the nail down about half way down then think down and in.
Also I use the Capewell City Clasics. they are beveled witch makes for a nice clinch.
Using this system, that an old Ausie taught me, I get some good strong clinches, and I know that these instructions work because I taught my boys to do it like this and their's come out better than mine.
You will find some horses dont like to be hammered, but too bad. Most horses don't like something but they have to do it.
BIll

A rightous man regardeth the life of his beast. Proverbs 12:10
I don't give a damn for a man who can only spell a word one way. Mark Twain
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RE:Clinches 22 Aug 2005 00:00 #4

I have a system which usually works. I'll nip the nails off as close to the wall as possible, gouge a hole, then clinch. The real trick is in how you use the clincher. I use the first to third tooth, just BARELEY pull the nail out, then squeezing the bottom jaw, I think "IN" and kink the nail back into itself and the hole i created. Use your non dominant hand as a pivot point if it helps, but think "IN"! Sounds corny, but it works. You can also, after nipping each nail tight, use the fine side of your rasp to square each nail. Good LUCK!
Ps "IN" :D
Jason




Think IN!
"Always listen to the experts. They tell you what can't be done, and why. Then do it." Robert Heinlien
Jason Maki CJF, RJF
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RE:Clinches 22 Aug 2005 00:56 #5

A tool that helps make nice clinches for me is the "Knipex" nail nipper. Placing the nose of these nippers directly against the hoof wall creates a perfect length nail cut for clinches.

I do not bring the hoof forward for clinching- I do it with the hoof in the folded back position. This lets me be sure I put the bottom jaw of the cinchers squarely on the nail head. It also reduces one extra move under that horse as well as being safer - I've watched and heard of more farrier injuries from a horse falling off a stand while clinching than I are to remember!

I use a simmonds "little hoof" rasp edge to remove the hoof burr and just barely undercut the nail itself.

Then I use a diamond "saddle horse" clincher and instead of raking the clinch DOWN, I squeeze it IN towards the wall. I also do not chatter the clincher jaw across the nail, or roll the clincher reins - just squeeze them together. I do not use a gouge. Then I rasp the clinch smooth.

To do a final set to the clinch I place the hoof back down and while the horse is standing on it I tap each clinch against the hoof wall.

The shoes stay on quite well but tthose that do get pulled always come off clean.
Regards,
Kim

Those who only consider cost, do NOT consider the cost to the horse!

The more we know, the more we know we need to know more! Ya know?
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RE:Clinches 22 Aug 2005 02:04 #6

Bill Adams wrote:
I do all hammer clinching. What you can do till you get the hang of it is to knock the clinch about half way down then gouge under it then rasp it short and square and clean up the gouge a bit then hammer the clinch home.

Bill's got the key here and it applies to using clinch tongs as well as hammer clinching.

Your nails need to be turned out 90* from the wall before you rasp them square and gouge underneath. From there follow Jason's advice and bend just past 90* and push "in". :)

If you clinches are still poping up it's because you have movement between the hoof and shoe or you drove nails in the wall.
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RE:Clinches 22 Aug 2005 02:26 #7

  • NHFarrier
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Thanks for all the great tips - after I've bent the nail 90 degrees and cleaned out under the nail, how much nail should be left for creating the clinch....I think this is my problem. If I leave too much I get big clinches, if I take too much, I can never grab the nail to make the clinch.

I'd like to try hammer clinching, but I don't like to try something I've never seen done first.....I'll have to find someone around here who hammer clinches.

Do those who use clinchers, tend to prefer the newer low nail clincher style or the "Lopez/Old GE" style?

Amy
Unless you're the lead dog, the view never changes.
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RE:Clinches 22 Aug 2005 04:00 #8

  • Peggy Dolan
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I use the Lopez off sets and get good clinches. I leave a clinch head about the width of the nail, as a guide. I use a two stroke method of setting the clinch. One movement to roll the clinch over and a shorter, sharper angled clinch stroke to squeeze the head into the hoof wall. I like my clinches rasped flush, so I stroke up in the rasp with my finish rasp, not down. This thins the clinch without tearing the head off.
Sometimes moisture will effect the clinch, if the hoof wall expands and contracts alot due to weather changes, but most of the time they look tight and flush at the next shoeing interval.
I try to take one day at a time -- but sometimes several days attack me at once.
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RE:Clinches 23 Aug 2005 13:19 #9

  • Tom Stovall CJF
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NHFarrier in gray

Thanks for all the great tips - after I've bent the nail 90 degrees and cleaned out under the nail, how much nail should be left for creating the clinch....I think this is my problem. If I leave too much I get big clinches, if I take too much, I can never grab the nail to make the clinch.


There should be just enough nail for you clinch tongs to get hold of, roughly a millimeter or so above the wall, if that. After you set your nails, try taking a a couple of passes with your finish rasp across the nails - that'll square them up and make them all the same height. If you're getting all the displaced horn out from under the shank, then long clinches are probably the result of your "rolling" your clinch tongs; i.e., putting the lower jaw on the nail head and pushing downward on the top rein. Try placing the lower jaw on the nail head, then lifting upward on the bottom rein. Lifting on the bottom rein will also make it easier to grasp a short set nail shank.

A good clinch is in the wall, not on the wall. Made and finished correctly, you shouldn't be able to find a fresh clinch with your bare hand without looking.

I'd like to try hammer clinching, but I don't like to try something I've never seen done first.....I'll have to find someone around here who hammer clinches.

The trick to hammer clinching is to hammer the base of the set nail stub, not the end. The necessary hammer control takes a bit of practice. :)

Do those who use clinchers, tend to prefer the newer low nail clincher style or the "Lopez/Old GE" style?

I use old GE alligator jaw (aka "saddle horse") clinch tongs on most short footed horses and, like most other farriers, I hammer clinch long footed horses.
Tom Stovall, CJF
"The only foolish question is the one left unasked."
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RE:Clinches 05 Jun 2006 16:52 #10

  • smitty88
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NH hows your clinching have you over come the problem
Smitty88
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RE:Clinches 05 Jun 2006 20:43 #11

  • Rancho JD
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I stopped block setting nails to save the week walled hooves about 15 years ago and didn't seem to lose shoes any more or less, now its a step i have managed to extracted from the routine. a few months ago i did block two nails for some reason because i remember using the pull-offs to do it but other than that i cant recall when was the last time i set a nail. any other saddle horse farriers find this an un-called for procedure
Hit on 16 stand on 17 and split those aces, merry christmas!
'panhandler' Reno, Nevada.
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RE:Clinches 05 Jun 2006 21:20 #12

  • Peggy Dolan
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I also opted to eliminate routinely blocking my clinches. I find no increase in cast shoes. My reasons were similiar, avoid additional tearing of the hoof wall and cutting out an extra step. On the flip side, I rarely cut off a clinch when I pull a shoe either.
I try to take one day at a time -- but sometimes several days attack me at once.
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RE:Clinches 05 Jun 2006 21:30 #13

  • smitty88
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whats blocking your clinches?
Smitty88
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RE:Clinches 05 Jun 2006 23:30 #14

Hey Smitty, you're from Europe?

In Europe we don't do that. But in the US guys use a steel block roughly 1 1/2" square wide and like 3" long to hold against the bend nail while tapping the head with the hammer. It tightens the nails before clinching. I know oldtimers here in Holland used the head of their nippers to do exactly the same thing on drafts.

I tried it just to find out if there was any benefit in it, but if there is, I didn't notice it.


Ronald Aalders
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RE:Clinches 06 Jun 2006 00:34 #15

  • solidrockshoer
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In the last few years I have experimented with a clinching technique that hardly looks like a clinch. After twisting the end off the nails I set them with a clinching block and simply rasp them smooth. :eek: The amasing thing is that I haven't lost one shoe in regulation time and just did a horse that was done 4 months ago, all shoes in place and firm. The hooves that I have done this to were of excellent quality.
If you take a nail and bend it in half, clip the point off close to the bend and try to straighten that little hook, it doesn't straighten. Try it you might like it. :)
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