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TOPIC: Snowball pads

Snowball pads 05 Oct 2008 01:38 #1

I started shoeing in Texas but have moved on up to Quebec. Got married so here I am. Anyhow, I am dealing with things like snowball pads and ice and snow traction for the first time in my career. First questing with the full sole snowball pads does the bubble go up or down? Also with the snow rim pad do these help, or is the full pad better? Also with traction corks is there anything wrong with just putting one on each heel or is it neccessary to put a couple on the toe as well? Any help is appreciated.

Lost in the Snow
James Cockrell
I learn every day, most days the horse teaches me.
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RE:Snowball pads 05 Oct 2008 02:02 #2

Bubble goes down. :)

Most of the time I use snow rim pads. For traction I use Mustad P13 studs or weld borium toe and heels. Pin studs just came out and I might try them this winter. Will take some pictures of what mine look like. Cutting the rim pads in the heels in line with the commissures is important to prevent sore feet.

The snowball pad is a good option for protection on frozen hard jagged mud, however if it fills with dirt and freezes that is a lot of pressure against the bottom of the foot. When I use them I pack the foot with pine tar and oakum. Vettec just came out with silicone packing called silpack. I use to use silicone under these pads, however I did not like how it softened the sole. I think the length of time for it to setup made the foot punky. The silpak sets up fast and I noticed the foot does not get soft and punky when I use it. Silpak might be a better packing than pine tar and oakum.

Hope this helps and will get some pictures of my setup soon. Actually I think I have pics on here already just need to find them for you.
Phil Armitage, CF
AFA member 7480

"Anyone who proposes to do good must not expect people to roll stones out of his way, but must accept his lot calmly if they even roll a few more upon it." Albert Schweitzer
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RE:Snowball pads 05 Oct 2008 22:28 #3

  • solidrockshoer
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I started shoeing in Texas but have moved on up to Quebec. Got married so here I am. Anyhow, I am dealing with things like snowball pads and ice and snow traction for the first time in my career. First questing with the full sole snowball pads does the bubble go up or down?
Phil got that tough one.;)
Also with the snow rim pad do these help, or is the full pad better?
A foot is always better if it can breath, but both work.
Also with traction corks is there anything wrong with just putting one on each heel or is it necessary to put a couple on the toe as well?
Some might say "It depends", however for a riding horse traction should be adequate but not severe. Heels only for riding, heels and toes for driving, has always worked for me. If your clients ride their horses like dirt bikes or ATV's, only God can help.:D
Incidentally, traction is always a good thing, whether in slop. wet grass, snow, up and down hill riding etc. a stable secure footing makes life a whole lot nicer.
John
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RE:Snowball pads 06 Oct 2008 00:55 #4

Thanks for that advice. I worked a little with the screw in corks last winter but I had just moved up so I only put them on one or two horses. I have melted borium on and I myself prefer it for traction but some owners like the idea of being able to remove the studs when they turn their horses out, in case one kicks the other. Also I did notice when I shaped the shoes I would have to screw in the corks to keep from distorting the drilled holes. Is there a better way to do this? Anyhow thanks for the help. If there is any other advice for shoeing in the winter it is greatly appreciated.
James Cockrell
I learn every day, most days the horse teaches me.
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RE:Snowball pads 06 Oct 2008 01:20 #5

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Thanks for that advice. I worked a little with the screw in corks last winter but I had just moved up so I only put them on one or two horses. I have melted borium on and I myself prefer it for traction but some owners like the idea of being able to remove the studs when they turn their horses out, in case one kicks the other.
Personally I drill all my shoes at the shop for drive ins. If I have to use screw ins I simply have to enlarge the hole and tap it, which I do after shaping.
Also I did notice when I shaped the shoes I would have to screw in the corks to keep from distorting the drilled holes. Is there a better way to do this?
Answered above.
Anyhow thanks for the help. If there is any other advice for shoeing in the winter it is greatly appreciated.
This is a personal preference, but applied borium is fine but I use manufactured studs for the simple reason that I'm assured that they are always equal weight therefore balance is not compromised. Some of the borium that I see on shoes, vary greatly in quantity and placement. Also a "Dillon" gun is best to apply borium because it illiminates carbonization and oxidization, therefore no cracking or breaking off of studs. The borium stud will be pure and solid. These welding guns are tempermental so use them out of the breeze.:cool:
John
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RE:Snowball pads 06 Oct 2008 03:40 #6

  • T. Wm. HALL
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Howdy,

Here are some pictures of some Bubble Snow Pads set up. I hope this helps. I had posted these somewhere on the forums previously, and it was discussed that 4 rivets is an over-kill, but that was the first time that I had set the bubble pads. Now I just rivet at the heels.

Have a good night.

Trevor


Trevor Wm. Hall, CF
Hall's Horseshoeing
Redmond, Oregon U.S.A.
www.Hallshorseshoeing.com


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RE:Snowball pads 06 Oct 2008 16:33 #7

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Trevor,
Nice set up regarding the pads. I have never needed to rivet the pads to the shoe and have never had them shift or fall out. Guess the 6-8 nails had something to do with them staying put. :p Not against doing it, just can't see the necessity. Nice work. John
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RE:Snowball pads 06 Oct 2008 16:46 #8

I use two rivits at the heels that way the pad is in place
and does not move for fit cutting perimenter to = shoe,
and it stays in place while getting those first two nails in. :)
Bradley SaintJohn

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RE:Snowball pads 06 Oct 2008 17:39 #9

  • NorvalWilhelm
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John Emsley wrote:
Trevor,
Nice set up regarding the pads. I have never needed to rivet the pads to the shoe and have never had them shift or fall out. Guess the 6-8 nails had something to do with them staying put. :p Not against doing it, just can't see the necessity. Nice work. John

I never rivet full pads but on rim pads I rivet the heels with copper rivets.
On a full pad I place the shoe over the pad on a wooden block and just start 2 nails in the 3rd holes, just slightly sticking through the pad and then place it over the foot and drive those 2 nails.

As for studs vs borium I have always had good luck with borium and have not had good luck with studs. I find the horses tend to cork themselves with studs. I also found if the stud is too fine I break them off on the pavement. I put the main traction in the heals with lesser in the toes but the toes do get some borium too.

I often built a foundation with my mig welder for the studs and then coated with borium to keep the cost down.
[SIGPIC]C:\Documents and Settings\norval\My Documents\My Pictures\jan22 017.jpg[/SIGPIC]
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RE:Snowball pads 07 Oct 2008 03:34 #10

Thanks for the pictures of the pads. Actually I was using the carbraze for the traction not the actual stoody borium, but that does make sense as far as the weight and all. Thanks for the help again.
James Cockrell
I learn every day, most days the horse teaches me.
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