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TOPIC: Anvil and Forge choice?

Anvil and Forge choice? 02 Jul 2008 04:20 #1

Hi all, I am in shoeing school right now and after I get out I am going to finish the last year or so of my four year degree. I am wanting to start shoeing while I am in school till I can go full time. Both my instructors here at school tell me to get a 100 pound anvil and that it is a must but another guy that teaches here uses a 70lb NC that he bolts to a somewhat heavy base that he made. With that heavier base it really adds alot to the anvil. I am operating on a really small budget and even though I will be doing mostly trims and not alot of them right out of the gate I don't want to have to turn business down if I can get the shoeing gigs. I would really like to be able to get a forge and an anvil so I can both practice my forge skills and be able to shoe hot. (banging on cold shoes and trying to punch new nail holes with out heat stinks.) They say the 70lb has to flat of a horn but I can afford that with a heavy base to add mass easier than I can afford a 100lb anvil. Should I just wait till I have the money down the road to get an anvil and just turn down any shoeing jobs? Shoe cold starting out? Any advise would be great! Thanks everybody!
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RE:Anvil and Forge choice? 02 Jul 2008 05:17 #2

  • clinkercjf
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I believe we have all spent money on equipment that we could get by with and regretted later. An anvil is a lifelong investment, choose wisely. I personally have used 7 different anvils in 15 years. Finally ended up with a Bowerman and do not see myself using any other anvil in the future. Forges are gonna burn out with use but a NC Whisper Momma with open end ports is my choice for every day shoeing.
Time is a great teacher, but unfortunately it kills all its pupils. Louis Hector Berlioz

Troy Ehrmantraut, CJF
2002 Journeyman Practical High Score Award.
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RE:Anvil and Forge choice? 02 Jul 2008 07:22 #3

huskerfan23 wrote:
Hi all, I am in shoeing school right now and after I get out I am going to finish the last year or so of my four year degree. I am wanting to start shoeing while I am in school till I can go full time. Both my instructors here at school tell me to get a 100 pound anvil and that it is a must but another guy that teaches here uses a 70lb NC that he bolts to a somewhat heavy base that he made. With that heavier base it really adds alot to the anvil. I am operating on a really small budget and even though I will be doing mostly trims and not alot of them right out of the gate I don't want to have to turn business down if I can get the shoeing gigs. I would really like to be able to get a forge and an anvil so I can both practice my forge skills and be able to shoe hot. (banging on cold shoes and trying to punch new nail holes with out heat stinks.) They say the 70lb has to flat of a horn but I can afford that with a heavy base to add mass easier than I can afford a 100lb anvil. Should I just wait till I have the money down the road to get an anvil and just turn down any shoeing jobs? Shoe cold starting out? Any advise would be great! Thanks everybody!
have you tryed to find a good used anvil try ebay or place a post here on items wanted how good are at makeing things if you are a fair welder i can email you a pic of the forge i made i will give you the size of the flame tubes and other parts to make one that will work from 000 to number 10 draft shoe just ask and i will help you if i can. bryan e
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RE:Anvil and Forge choice? 02 Jul 2008 10:47 #4

  • Derin Foor
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I would highly encourage you to get a round horn anvil. I started out with flat horn anvils and I think they really slowed my progress when it came to shoeing and shoe modification. I use a 100# Scott anvil and there is a lot of info on this site if you do a search for anvils.

Starting out I would get whatever forge you can get for a reasonable price and upgrade later after you figure out what will work best in your situation.

If you start out hot shoeing, you wont have to re-train yourself later and your elbows, etc will like you a lot more ;)

my $.02

Derin
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RE:Anvil and Forge choice? 02 Jul 2008 20:23 #5

  • calshoer
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The larger anvild takea lot of work out of the jiob, and if you can aford a "Future" which is half aluminum, , you will get the ame work from a lighter anvil.
A smaller anvil (70#) will work fine IF you get a good solid base under it. The "stump" stand that has a thick wood base set on three thick aluminum lgs woks great.
Or build an inexpensive base from 2X4's stacked like a log cabin and lag bolted together . The wood really absorbs a lot of shock and makes the whole thing more solid and effective.

I have had several flat horn anvils and a round horn old GE, and it is no more difficult to work hot on a flat than it is on a round horn, just a little bit different because you will move your hammer blows a bit more over toward the side of the horn rather than just off the center.

I have had a 115 pound anvil designed by Bob Smith from Pacific Horseshoeig School for about 13 years now and absolutely love it. It has a totally straight offside, with no lip over the edge of the face , so I can really use the side to open a branch of a shoe easily with no interference from a lip or the molded in letters getting in my way. And that thing doesn't ring and is solid. But Ifdonty even know who carries them . I got mine back then from The Horseshoe Barn in Sacramento ,CA.
Patty Stiller CNBF,CLS
www.hoofcareonline.com
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RE:Anvil and Forge choice? 02 Jul 2008 20:42 #6

  • calshoer
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I found this too, nice article and how-to on various anvil stands. http://www.anvilfire.com/iForge/tutor/jd_stand/
Patty
Patty Stiller CNBF,CLS
www.hoofcareonline.com
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RE:Anvil and Forge choice? 03 Jul 2008 01:20 #7

  • JimBondra
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I would respectfully disagree with Patty about round vs flat horns on anvils. A round horn holds the shape of the horses foot within it. The flat side is merely flat. Why on earth should the horn of a anvil be flat when there is already a flat side to the anvil? Seems redundant doesn't it?
I use an old Trenton anvil that weighs about 120 lbs. Bought it from a friend for 50 bucks and welded the chipped up sides back together an stuck a clip horn on it. Yeah I'm old school useing a clip horn.

Jim CJF
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RE:Anvil and Forge choice? 03 Jul 2008 02:35 #8

  • beslagsmed
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I gess there are so many different types of anvils as there are farriers who use them. I have both - round horn(in my shop)and a "shaped horn" as you can see in my avatar. I like them both for where and what I use them for.

My best advice - work on both and find out what works best for you before you invest too much in one!!!
Mikel Dawson, RJF

(Denmark)
What part of "NO" don't you understand!!

Caution: Watch for hoof in mouth disease!!!
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RE:Anvil and Forge choice? 03 Jul 2008 04:43 #9

Check ou farm auctionsn and junk dealers. and old anvil can usually be bought at bargain prices if you look in the right places as people think they're junk and look to make a quick buck s****ing them. If it has chipped edges just build them up with hard surface rod and grind them back down. If you look around you should be able to find a good used anvil for less than $100 just stay away from the antique dealers. Good luck.
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RE:Anvil and Forge choice? 06 Jul 2008 12:38 #10

  • George Geist
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JimBondra wrote:
I would respectfully disagree with Patty about round vs flat horns on anvils. A round horn holds the shape of the horses foot within it. The flat side is merely flat. Why on earth should the horn of a anvil be flat when there is already a flat side to the anvil? Seems redundant doesn't it?
I use an old Trenton anvil that weighs about 120 lbs. Bought it from a friend for 50 bucks and welded the chipped up sides back together an stuck a clip horn on it. Yeah I'm old school useing a clip horn.

Jim CJF
Good man Jim,

I use a cliphorn too.

All this talk about whats better is really kind of amusing. I was a nitpicker about that stuff for a while till I saw the National Geographic special about the weapons makers in the Kyber Pass.

Those guys hand forge AK47s on pieces of railroad track. They do beautiful work on the crudest of equipment.

Is all about the guy swinging the hammer not the equipment guys;)
George
For another fun place to play........
www.horseshoersforum.invisionzone.com
Come over and say hello.
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RE:Anvil and Forge choice? 06 Jul 2008 13:25 #11

  • clinkercjf
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A poor craftsman blames his tools. That bein' said I do love good tools.
Time is a great teacher, but unfortunately it kills all its pupils. Louis Hector Berlioz

Troy Ehrmantraut, CJF
2002 Journeyman Practical High Score Award.
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RE:Anvil and Forge choice? 06 Jul 2008 14:03 #12

  • calshoer
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I shaped a shoe blank once over the pipe hitch tie railing in the shop, when one of my students was complaining about the anvil on his *first day* working in the fire.
You should be able to turn a blank on a darn rock , if you know how to use your hammer and tongs. I knew an old guy when I was in farrier school who used parts of his farm tractor for an anvil.
I mean, a tractor is heavy and has round spots, flat spots, holes, everything you need , if you look around on one .:D
Patty Stiller CNBF,CLS
www.hoofcareonline.com
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RE:Anvil and Forge choice? 06 Jul 2008 14:30 #13

  • clinkercjf
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What has that got to do with the subgect at hand. I have no plans of adding a tractor to my horseshoeing tool inventory.
Time is a great teacher, but unfortunately it kills all its pupils. Louis Hector Berlioz

Troy Ehrmantraut, CJF
2002 Journeyman Practical High Score Award.
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RE:Anvil and Forge choice? 06 Jul 2008 15:06 #14

  • calshoer
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It was meant both in humor and to illustrate that there are many different ways to get the job done. Don't get all pear shaped .
Besides , I wouldn't expect most poeple to use a tractor for an anvil...it would not fit in the truck very well. ;)
Patty Stiller CNBF,CLS
www.hoofcareonline.com
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RE:Anvil and Forge choice? 06 Jul 2008 19:24 #15

  • boxnsafe
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calshoer wrote:
The larger anvild takea lot of work out of the jiob, and if you can aford a "Future" which is half aluminum, , you will get the ame work from a lighter anvil.
A smaller anvil (70#) will work fine IF you get a good solid base under it. The "stump" stand that has a thick wood base set on three thick aluminum lgs woks great.
Or build an inexpensive base from 2X4's stacked like a log cabin and lag bolted together . The wood really absorbs a lot of shock and makes the whole thing more solid and effective.

I have had several flat horn anvils and a round horn old GE, and it is no more difficult to work hot on a flat than it is on a round horn, just a little bit different because you will move your hammer blows a bit more over toward the side of the horn rather than just off the center.

I have had a 115 pound anvil designed by Bob Smith from Pacific Horseshoeig School for about 13 years now and absolutely love it. It has a totally straight offside, with no lip over the edge of the face , so I can really use the side to open a branch of a shoe easily with no interference from a lip or the molded in letters getting in my way. And that thing doesn't ring and is solid. But Ifdonty even know who carries them . I got mine back then from The Horseshoe Barn in Sacramento ,CA.

the block on those powerblock stands is just basically a piece of structural gluelam, of the type used for beams in residential construction. usually the contracter has to cut a couple feet off. get a piece from a builder, make steel pipe legs for it, save yourself a couple hundred bucks, put that money into getting a little more anvil. couple pieces of angle iron across the base/ feet of anvil, long lag bolts into the block clamp the anvil down pretty well. 18 volt impact driver for the lags make clamping and unclamping easy. longer, slowly tapering horn is nice. pchs anvil patty was talking about has a horn like that , they stopped making them, but i see them around . future is nice for weight, but around $800. most 70 pounders have a fat stubby horn that tapers very abruptly. more warping when you are shaping , shoe binds on horn a bit when broadening a toe. some have cams on the side, they can get in the way and are not incredibly useful. a grooved face for pritcheling is a nice feature, if you can find it,or get it done/do it. a narrow heel is nice when pritcheling a clipped shoe (i'm clumsy, and often one of my nail holes will need a bit of help after i draw a clip). clip horn is nice, but sometimes easier to step around to off-side, reach tongs/shoe under heel, and draw them on nearside edge. cliphorn is not necessary, don't consider it to be a hugely important factor.
Chris Hadel (530)559-1160 "practice makes better" when you don't spend too much time practicing the same old mistakes
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