The block is not important, but the clincher must be a quality tool.

alright, I will look for a good clincher and I was told I could get extra practice in the forge after hours at the school so I might take on a project of learning how to make my own tongs this summer!

also and this is a little off subject but when it comes time down the road in the future is there any place that might sell used or consigned equipment such as forges and anvils so I might lessen the cost to get started when it comes time for that?

huskerfan23 wrote:Keep an eye on e-bay as well as www.anvilfire.com I'd also recommend joining ABANA and keeping an eye on their website.
George

Yeah right, in 15 total Saturdays they really have time to make pritchells and punches *while* they also learn to trim and put keg shoes on correctly .
BTW.....I do have scruples and because of that I have given notice at the college . I will finish out this semester, and not again teach a part time course sold by a school as a course for possible professionals
That said , despite the time limitations,I HAVE turned out some respectable entry level farriers who do a darn good job. But boy it's a killer. I am tired.

New GE are about $200 where you are, but in Australia they are $319! It's easy to forget the discussion is global. I have to laugh at you guys in America complaining about fuel prices - we are getting very close to the $2 per litre mark 'round here.

I think it's a great shame that you are finishing up with teaching Pattie, I'm sure you will be missed greatly. Don't go giving up this BB though! I just started my course last month (here it is one weekend a month for 3 years!) and it was great. After the 5 hour drive I felt there was no way I could commit to going every month but after being there, I would do it every weekend if I could.

calshoer wrote:Sure is plenty of time. At the fly by night place I went was the first thing we learned to do in the forge. Made them out of coil springs. Is an excellent homework assignment:cool:
George

huskerfan23 wrote:
I prefer wooden, scr-ew-on handles.

A diamond hone is better. In time, you'll probably want a knife sharpening system that uses an abrasive wheel and a buffing wheel.

I've been a GE user right from the git go. I've tried other brands, but none have stood the test of time.

I'm a C&M user and fan. Don't fall into the trap of buying half a cow hide to wear. They're too heavy and don't stop a nail any better than the codura aprons with appropriate leather patches.

Diamond will work just fine

[quote1 Hoof Knife[/quote]

The Knife, "classic". There are several versions of this knife, but you want to specify "classic". It holds its edge better and is easier to re-sharpen.
You should try several different ones to see which suits you the best. I prefer the Wood-Miller Ultra sharp or the Heller Legend. For a finish rasp, I use a Simmonds Black Master and a half-round wood finishing rasp.

'bout any brand will do.

Ward & Story will work, but regardless of which one you choose, you will need to re-calibrate it on a regular basis, so cut a piece of 2x4 to a set angle(52*, 54* etc) and use that as your calibration guide.

In time you will find that you use the gauge less and less

A Jim Blurton or a Jim Poor 10 or 12 oz hammer will be well worth the money. Again, you should try several different ones to see which best suits you.
I use a Flatland Forge 1 3/4 pound hammer, but also have several others at various weights. For starters, a basic 2 pound hammer will probably suffice.

I use GE curved jaw clinchers, MFC crease nail pullers and since I don't wring my nails off, I use Shadowfax nail nippers(unavailable right now) but other brands will suffice. Made my clinch block myself. A pair of hot fit tongs.

I'd suggest more than just work boots with steel toes. I'd suggest boots with steel toes and metatarsal protection.

Band-aids, hydrogen peroxide, athletic tape, duct tape .

Thank you all! I really Appreciate it![/QUOTE]

huskerfan23 wrote:
It may be a case of; you will be trained how to hammer clinch and encouraged to do that,
and not taught or encouraged to use a clinching tool.

When I went there in ought one, we hammer clinched everything and hoof stands/cradles were not allowed, unless working on a draft. We also made every shoe we put on. This is what we were sold:
GE nippers and pullers (still have mine)
SaveEdge rasps
Frost knives (bad) buy a Halverson
Cordura apron
12 oz. hammer (can't remember which kind)
1.5 lb and 2.5 lb hammers
Dividers
Hoof gauge
Fire tongs
Books
I probably forgot something but you get the idea.

I love my GE nippers and ANY nipper that I had reconditioned by lopez. But Stephen Smith has posted a favorable review of these very inexpensive nippers. I have yet to try them as I have 2 pair of GE's in reserve, but I just may buy some 12 inchers since mine mysteriously disappeared.



sshorseshoeing wrote:
http://www.horseshoes.com/forums/showpost.php?p=110374&postcount=12

calshoer wrote:
I think it is a shame too if you don't continue to teach. I have learned more from you on this forum then anyone else.

Get a BUFFY!!! you will be the envy of school haha

huskerfan23 wrote:
craigslist. lots of guys go to school, buy nice gear , then give up pretty quick. you can buy their whole kit (or peices) cheap. watch the used forges. many of them are not worth the cost in rebuild materials/time/PIA to deal with.

I agree, Craigs list is a good place to look for barely used tools. Ebay as well but be careful there, check the sellers rating and get GOOD pictures of the tools.