Wooden Shoes, it's really a considerable option? Has anyone knows about this new alternative in the treatment of chronic laminitis? I was reading on volume 13: issue 4 of The Natural Angle newsletter and is very interesting and seems very practicle, except for the screws that attach the wooden shoe to the horse's hoof. These screws are screwed from the exterior wall instead of nails from the sole. With the brake over point and heel elevation benfits I'm agree, but I'm kind of reluctant with the screwing metod.

Please share your opinion... Thanks!

You can pre drill the holes from the bottom

Some more reading for you

www.equipodiatry.com/article_wooden_shoe_chronic_laminitis.htm

Well if you haven't tried it yet (screwing) you really should. For cryin' out loud, you're a farrier, not a monk.

AussieMal wrote:
Thanks a Million AussieMal, I had never thought of it before seeing the pics. I've checked the link and that's exactly what I was talking about, I appreciate your input.. Blessings!

tbloomer wrote:
Precisely because I'm a farrier and not a freaking monk I wanted to do my homework and study all the angles responsibly and not copycatting everything one read or see others doing at first. My point is that one has to protect all the structure of the hooves and investigating new ways of doing all things can help improve the health of the horse. For example I would like to try gluing instead of screwing to see if it works. The wooden shoe is a good improvement, let’s try gluing it or use a boot with it and that way keep the wheel running. Blessings!

They can also be cast on.

Donnie Walker wrote:
Thank you Donnie, I'm sure wrapped with casting tape will ad additional stability of the hoof. I don't have any lame horse at the moment to work with it, but either way I'm going to fabricate at least 2 pairs of wooden shoes and see if I can make a groove like the one in the metal shoes for the nails. I probably use a router to do so. Also using casting tape for stability. In any case if nailing doesn't works, then I'll stick with the screws. Also I find a good idea to fill the wooden clogs with dental impression material against the sole from the point of the frog to the rear of the hoof.

I'm very into this and I look forward to read more about it. I plan to have one of my horses with the wooden shoes by the weekend and I'm eager to see the results. I'm also very optimistic about the breakover point, how could affect the gait, reduce presure on the points of most weight, etc. I appreciate the learning experience and your advice! Blessings!

I want to share this noncommercial link for all of us that enjoy having more options to shoeing horses. The more alternatives one has in hand, the better you can do your work and there is many different kinds of non-metal shoes out there to help the lame horse…

www.hoofblog.com

Ya know the owner of that web site, Fran Jerga, takes peoples money for magazine subscriptions and never delivers the magazines. This has been going on for over 6 years and people keep getting ripped off. Just keep that in mind. If you subscribe to the mag, you just got the same thing as if you flushed that money down the toilet.

The Professional wrote:
You should really try to understand the mechanics instead of metal vs non-metal.

It's easier to push over a tall rectangle than it is to push over a square. The clog is thicker (rectangle) so it is easier for p3 to turn over than a thinner shoe (square).

How you fasten it to the foot or what it's made out of has little to no bearing on the mechanics of the shoe.

Thanks for the “heads up” Tom! I also know another fella who’s doing the same thing. He has a magazine that he promote, 6 issues for year… but you end up receiving just 2… if you’re lucky. I cancel my subscription and ask for my money back the first very year. Lots of friends keep complaining with their subscription. So the guy still promoting his magazine but he's never at reach for answers.
Blessings!

You’re right! And as a matter of fact, that’s something I’m always aware of. The mechanics and also the horse conformation and his phenotype are subjects of special consideration on my part since I work with Paso Fino’s mostly and dealing with gaited horses, I like to be very perfectionist with the angles. It probably takes a little longer to finish the job but is worth it!

I would rather use classic metal shoes all the time but remember that when it comes to the point of a chronic laminitis, where the pedal bone has rotated and for that, the angle is not that normal any more… the situation itself is abnormal and there for, one has to use a different approach. That’s when I started to think about the non-metal shoes and all those other options which is good to have handy and had been practiced in the methods of using it. My main concern was with the screws, but I’m over it now. Thanks for the tip Eric I appreciate it! Blessings!

Point being you can make them out of anything. I wouldn't be too happy if I spent the time making a wooden clog and then have it crack while I'm nailing it on.

Yep, that could happen, and they may be slippery too. The horse is not going to be in the stable or paddock all the time and it has to walk in a hard ground and concrete paths. The grooming area and the wash area in the barn they're also very slippery for the weight of a horse in wooden shoes, that's something to keep in mind and for any non-metal shoes as well.

Eric Russell wrote: I think with wood you are better off pre-drilling holes slightly smaller than the size of the screw shank and using screws instead of nails to attach the "plank." Plywood has better split resistance than solid wood due to the cross lamination. If you are going to use solid wood and nails without pre-drilling, you should blunt the tip of the nails so there is a flat spot on the tip of the nail. I don't know why, but that little trick seems to make a big difference in keeping wood from splitting when you drive nails into it - at least it does on lumber for decks, frames and such.