handmades

[PerformanceHorseshoeing]

Your fullering and nail holes could be a little more towards the toe on the hind. Where they are now IMO they are too far back. Work on your heels more. Don't turn the shoe until your heels are right. Check out the video on heels on the WCB site, I've watched it a few dozen times and learned something new each time.

[Box Forge]

Here are two that I forged today one is a hind preventer barshoe forged from 14" x 3/8" x 3/4" and the other is a concave lateral heel support shoe forged from 11 1/2" x 3/8" x 3/4" flat stock w/ inside cut out(concaved) On the preventer barshoe, it is just the poor lighting and the lack of my photography skills that makes the rolled quarter appear thinner; the foot surface has same section width throughout.

[Matt McMicken]

Pretty work Phillip.

[Red Amor]

Yeah good on you Phil noyce stuf mate
would that I had half your artistic tallent n skill

[Box Forge]

Thanks Matt and Red. And Red, I'm sure you have a lot more talent than you give yourself credit for. I don't have a ton of talent, I have to work pretty hard at it everyday to do the little bit of stuff that I do.

[Rick Burten]

Really nice stuff.

Would you list the steps you used to forge the concave shoe?

Thanks.

Rick

[Box Forge]

Rick, this is the sequence I use, others may have other ways of going about it.

-Bump up(upset) lateral heel
-Forge lateral heel checks
-Forge medial heel and break toe but I don't close it too tight or define it at this stage
-Mark fullering from heel to heel and run a parallel line with fuller just to the
inside of your other fullering.
-Cut out the inside with the fuller and hot rasp w/ half-round file.
-Fuller from quarter to quarter full depth
-Set and define toe and quarter bends, run fuller back through and lay out nails
-Finish punching nails
-Hot Rasp entire shoe and brush and iron it out.


I personally prefer to leave the toe open to prevent chatter marks from the fuller trying to make such a tight turn around the toe of a hind pattern. However, you could just make a fuller that is adjusted to make such tight turns and this would enable you to set the toe at an earlier stage.

[UpNorthShoer]

Well here is tonights forge practice. Not as pretty as Phillips, but never the less. 11 1/4" of 5/16 X 3/4. 1/4" bumped into the toe. My toe nails are still to far back. What do you think? Would they nail?
Cody
PS They do stack up with each other much better then the pics show. I must not have been staight above them

[PerformanceHorseshoeing]

Heels came out much nicer!

[SlowShoe]

I'd say. The fullering and placement needs some work. How are you marking the starting of your creases?

[Rick Burten]

Thanks Phil. I appreciate it.

Rick

[Box Forge]

Originally Posted by UpNorthShoer

Well here is tonights forge practice. Not as pretty as Phillips, but never the less. 11 1/4" of 5/16 X 3/4. 1/4" bumped into the toe. My toe nails are still to far back. What do you think? Would they nail?
Cody
PS They do stack up with each other much better then the pics show. I must not have been staight above them

Cody, this set of shoes looks a lot nicer. I agree the heels are much better. It's hard to say, for me, regarding the fineness of the fullering, I think that is what Slowshoe was referring to. I'd have to probably look at you nail hole exit depth. From the view I have on these pictures, they don't appear to be too fine, but it's hard to tell from a still pic. On 5/16" stock I also fuller slightly finer than with 3/8" so you very well could be ok on that, I just can't say definitively. I'm not sure what nail you are fullering for, but the fullering did appear a little wide in some spots. But keep up the good work.

[UpNorthShoer]

I marked 1 1/4" from center and then bumped a 1/4" into the toe. I think that would be pretty close for my nails but I keep forgetting and start my fullering there. I really only started creasing my shoes 2 weeks ago, my forging has a long way to go, but every journey starts with one step. I find my self thinking about forging all the time! who would think that bending a piece of steel into the shape of a horses foot would be so addicting? Anyway thanks for the input!

[UpNorthShoer]

Phill. Nails exit pretty close to center on the toe nails and just slightly finer on the heel nails. They are punched for MX 50's. I need more consistency. Baby steps!! Thanks again

[hotrodiesel]

Cody,
Try marking your toe nails after you bump up the toe. If you mark them before you bump it, if your bumping is not perfectly centered, then it is going to put your marks off. Mark the center, bump the toe and make your toe bend. Set a pair of calipers at 1 1/4". After your toe bend, set one point of the caliper in the center mark and mark for your toe nails. This way both your marks will be exact from center.