tools

[Andrew_Belcher]

Hey,
I am a student going to Heartland Horseshoeing School in July. I was wondering, if y'all could please help me out with making some tools and saving a bit of money.
Here is a list of all the tools i need for school:

Hoof Nippers
Curved Jaw Clinchers
Clinch Gouge
Crease Nail Puller
Pull Offs
hoof knife
Loop knife
Driving Hammer
Shoeing Apron
1/4" tongs
5/16" tongs
3/8" tongs
1/2" tongs
E-head Forepunch
Creaser
2 Pritchels
Rounding Hammer
Clipping Hammer
3 Rasps
3 Rasp handles
Large Butcher Block Brush
3' Tape Measure
1 Anvil Devil
Shoeing Box
Safety Glasses
Ear plugs

my question is...what could i make and what do i need to buy. The things that i make...how, and the things to buy, what brands?

thanks Guys!

I'm Young...but i love this trade and am SO excited to go to school and even now learn everything i can!

thanks for the help!

Andrew

[Bill Lawrence]

Andrew I can comment on a few things here,but not everything.On a shoeing box, I'd get something that you can move easily, quickly, if you have to. I use one of those Nature Farm boxes I sure like, I wouldn't skrimp on the hoof nippers,I would get GE.I got a set of Lopez clinchers that are nice and cheaper than GE The Jim Keith tongs are what I use ,they feel good in my hand.Got a 1/4 inch Diamond tong that is a lot lighter,that I like to use also.And I would consider the Mustad tongs also .I use a Jim blurton clipping hammer that I like,I thought it was a good hammer for the money,the handle was too small for me though,depends on your hands.Not sure where you are at with forge skills, but if you haven't done it before,you may have to wait on making some of these things.make your shoeing apron if you can sew leather.Pearl chrome (leather terminolgy) is the stuff you want.Also , if you just want to buy a set of apron,then Stephenson Forge in Billings MT are the ones I'd buy. just between you ,me and the fencepost,I think it's safer to buy a knife than to make it,at this stage. Good luck Bill

[John Corkery]

Hello Andrew,
Congratulation on your choice of trade and school.So from the what it's worth department here goes my choices for saving $$$ for a young guy or for that matter anyone who plans on staying in school with no income.Now some will say buy good tools to start and that is true. The best will last, although to be frank you are just starting out and most folks do not and for the most can not take care of them in school with all that is going on.








Hey,
I am a student going to Heartland Horseshoeing School in July. I was wondering, if y'all could please help me out with making some tools and saving a bit of money.
Here is a list of all the tools i need for school:

Hoof Nippers---http://www.anvilbrand.com/store/catalog/ sound mount nippers, they are as good as most (just not polished)and you ( could buy 2 for sixty bucks apiece or one and buy on when you feel you need one. "Hint"you won't so enough horses to wear any brand out,but they'll hold up to a students' abuse.
Curved Jaw Clinchers----start with what you want to spend,but again at first a person tens to roll their hands and tear the teeth out of them regard less of the brand!
Clinch Gouge---Bloom I guess.---they all need to be sharpen
Crease Nail Puller----most will do you, they are easy to keep shaped up
Pull Offs---draft "be prepared"
hoof knife----JC or frost as a knife is another thing you will abuse
Loop knife--not at this point of your career
Driving Hammer---go in and get the feel--only you will know what ya like or feels OK to you---that is what counts!!
Shoeing Apron---e-bay check out the posts on this site (aprons)
1/4" tongs ah get two pair of diamonds, heat to fit !/4" and 5/16" that is what you will be working with and they are easily adjusted
5/16" tongs
3/8" tongs
1/2" tongs
E-head Fore punch-- ya probably make them at school
Creaser--(ditto)
2 Pritchels--(ditto)
Rounding Hammer---1.5---2 lb.
Clipping Hammer---um a cross-peen I use, again ask Chris
3 Rasps----Na get a box(6)ya can't take care of them
3 Rasp handles-- Alum. screw on
Large Butcher Block Brush---yep
3' Tape Measure---get a good quality one
1 Anvil Devil-don't know that you need one in school
Shoeing Box--This you can make
Safety Glasses-get a couple pair of very good wrap around.
Ear plugs--- the head phone looking ones, and so not ever work with out them ya HEAR!!!!!!

Best of luck John

my question is...what could i make and what do i need to buy. The things that i make...how, and the things to buy, what brands?

thanks Guys!

I'm Young...but i love this trade and am SO excited to go to school and even now learn everything i can!

thanks for the help!

Andrew

[Bill Adams]

Andrew,
Welcome.
At this point in your carrier with the amount of time you have, you could make prichels, head stamps, creasers and such, but wouldn't worry about it too much. You need to learn how to use them first then you'll know what you want to make a tool to your likes and needs.
Good choice going to Heartland. Read and reread the text you'll be reading and know your anatomy.
Work with as many Farriers as you can till July.
Have a ball.

[Andrew_Belcher]

thanks everyone!

i have been, 1. riding with two guys out of rosenburg...Joel Ondrusek, and Cam Lapee. and 2. i have been doing ordamental blacksmith work for almost 6 years! so forging skills i have. i can draw, punch, drift, weld...etc.
i have a city head forepunch but i need an E-head...GRRR!! i have one pritchel...but i need 2 GRRR!! i already have two knives...got them for christams, a straight blade and a curved blade.

thanks for all the replys!

Andrew

[calshoer]

You can eventually make your own clinch block, clinch cutter, pritchells, punches, and tongs but because everything except the clinch block must be very exacting for fit and tempered correctly, I would not do that until after you are in class a while so you know what the specs are and can have the instructor guide you.
I recommend buying these items to begin with to insure quality and fit.

As to tool quality buy the best nippers you can get for the money. GE would top my list for quality,at about $180-$200 the newer Nordic "Viking" line is a surprisingly good buy for the money ($100) Stay way from ANY nippers under a hundred bucks you will find them difficult to use. And I prefer 14" track nippers because the smaller width racetrack blade cuts easier than a regular width blade, even on large feet. Get good brand name rasps (no EBay 10 dollar junk. )
Diamond is a good mid-price starter brand for just about everything else, (pull offs clinch cutter, clinch block ,driving hammer, clinchers etc. )
After you have been at this a while you will find other tools that may suit your own hands and "feel" better but these are good starters .

[ocsmitty]

I've been looking at the GE 15 ' nippers but simply can't justify the price. I've been using Diamonds without any problems (nippers, clinchers, nail pullers, pull offs), they work fine, especially on a limited budget when just starting out. Perhaps when you and I both are 6 figure shoers we can afford to splurge. Right now I would go with good functioning tools over the more expensive ones you will some day carry. I also watch ebay for slightly used tools and have had really good luck so far. That being said, by all means there are much smarter and more experience people here that may have better ideas.

Good Luck,

Bryant

[Bradley-1stChoice]

Hey,
I am a student going to Heartland Horseshoeing School in July. I was wondering, if y'all could please help me out with making some tools and saving a bit of money.
Here is a list of all the tools i need for school:
my question is...what could i make and what do i need to buy. The things that i make...how, and the things to buy, what brands? thanks for the help!
Andrew



Hoof Nippers.........................GE - only
Curved Jaw Clinchers..............Ray Steele Adjustable
Crease Nail Puller...................Yes
Pull Offs...............................Round the corners
Driving Hammer......................round Stove pipe head.
Shoeing Apron.......................leather - non stiff, rap around
Creaser...............................To match your nails
2 Pritchels...........................#of punches=#of different size nails you use
......................................... + I use a #1 nail prichel as a back punch
Rounding Hammer..................Randy Blackstock - 1.5lb
Clipping Hammer....................Cross pein - home-ground 2lb to 1.5lb cross pein
3 Rasps...............................Big Foot, Heller, Magic Cut for finishing
3 Rasp handles.....................Plastic, Equithotics Rasp Handles
Large Butcher Block Brush.......
3' Tape Measure....................Yes
1 Anvil Devil..........................Never use it
Shoeing Box..........................black rubber feed bucket, or home-made alum/like mine.
Safety Glasses....................... and cutting glasses
Ear plugs..............................plastic/rubber, the multi ring type/w finger handle

[smitty88]

Andrew,

I woudent go for a GE nippers
i would start out on somthing like Diamond

madness spending that money when your going
to reck them

one on the list i would bye the best is your tongs
a must also a good apron and a good pair of boots

you can make some of your tools

buffer
pritchel
stamps ect

do you have acess to forge before you go to college

[Andrew_Belcher]

yes i have access to a forge and completly equipted shop...

Andrew

[Mike Ferrara]

Andrew,

I woudent go for a GE nippers
i would start out on somthing like Diamond

madness spending that money when your going
to reck them

one on the list i would bye the best is your tongs
a must also a good apron and a good pair of boots

you can make some of your tools

buffer
pritchel
stamps ect

do you have acess to forge before you go to college

Interesting recommendation. It's been well over 20 years since I tried a pair of diamond nippers but I baught a set and promptly gave them away. I thought they were absolute junk. Looking back, I should have kept them for cutting stuff other than hoof.

On the other hand, I would have expected you to suggest making a pair of tongs to get started forging since you can forge a pair of tongs without tongs.

[smitty88]

I tried a pair of diamond nippers but I baught a set and promptly gave them away. I thought they were absolute junk. (Mike)

Well there ya go Mike i never had a problem with them it must have been
the way you were useing them.

i dont need flash tools to do good work

[calshoer]

Andrew, if you have a full shop and have been artistically forging already , you probably know about fitting tongs and should probably have quite a few pairs.
For farriery you will need at least 3 pairs of tongs,( 5/16" and 3/8" for flat stock are the most common) and 1/4",for sliders, and if your going to be making punches, a pair for round stock.

[calshoer]

Don't buy diamond nippers, they stink, especially the 15".
You will not wreck a good pair of nippers unless you are careless with them. You might as well learn how to use them correctly and how to protect them from the 'get go'.
If you just pretend they are made of solid gold, you will be careful.
I get new diamonds for 79 bucks as spares sometimes when I have my good pair in for rebuilding.
Then I send the nearly new diamonds to the rebuilders and they come back like GE's . (For a total of 35-40 bucks less than new GE's 's .)
I have done that with good brand name but dull E-bay used nippers too. ;)

[smitty88]

Its confuseing Andrew bet your sorry you asked

[calshoer]

I am kind of suprized the school does not offer the students a list of the brands of tools that they prefer the students to use....or put together a nice tool package to sell them.

[Mike Ferrara]

Well there ya go Mike i never had a problem with them it must have been
the way you were useing them.

i dont need flash tools to do good work

Such a presumptuous statement.

Good tools are a pleasure to use and make work (and learning) easier. You would use junk tools just because you can? I don't think that would make for a fun day but to each their own.

I see a new thread coming...everyday work using junk nippers, dull knives and old rusty rasps. I know! Lets use stone tools. No "flash tools" for us. LOL

[Mike Ferrara]

Don't buy diamond nippers, they stink, especially the 15".
You will not wreck a good pair of nippers unless you are careless with them. You might as well learn how to use them correctly and how to protect them from the 'get go'.
If you just pretend they are made of solid gold, you will be careful.
I get new diamonds for 79 bucks as spares sometimes when I have my good pair in for rebuilding.
Then I send the nearly new diamonds to the rebuilders and they come back like GE's . (For a total of 35-40 bucks less than new GE's 's .)
I have done that with good brand name but dull E-bay used nippers too. ;)

I have a pair of anvilbrand nippers for a "backup" that I think were about $80. I don't think they hold up as well as the GE but they aren't bad to use.

[JimBondra]

Andrew,
What ever you decide to buy as far as tools go.
Make sure you put an identifying mark on each of them.
A permanent mark, metal stamp of your initials would work.
Stamp the wood handle of the knife, not the blade:eek:
Even mark your apron.
Most of the students I have talked to say that their tools had a way of disappearing into someone else's work area.
Mostly unintentional but, it happens.

[T. Wm. HALL]

I am kind of suprized the school does not offer the students a list of the brands of tools that they prefer the students to use....or put together a nice tool package to sell them.Actually, they do have a list. I found this listing of preferred brands on their tool page listed on their (Heartland Horseshoeing School) Website.

http://www.heartlandhorseshoeing.com/tools.html

Some items that I would substitute, rather than Mustad Tongs, I would rather have Jim Keith or Jim Poor (Flatland Forge). Mustad does make some respectable tongs though.

Also, I would use Save-Edge, Simonds, or Belotta rasps prior to using Mustad.

St.Croix Nail Pullers break easily, I suggest again, G.E. or Lopez. Mustad makes decent Pull-Offs, but again G.E. or Delta is a preference.

All of the suggestions are spot on, and good tools that could easily and safely put forth quality work.

Trevor

[DoubleCFarrierService]

As far as nippers go, I started with a set of diamonds, and they work well. I think for someone starting out, they get the job done nicely. GE and Lopez are my two favorite though, and you will notice a difference. Not as much effort to nip the hoof. You can make a clinch block fairly easy, take a couple of peices of bar stock and weld them together and then slap on a handle and you are good to go. I have used a homemade clinch cutter, but in my opinion by the time you buy the steel and then spend the time making it you can buy a decent one that will do the job just as well. I would start with a good hammer, stay away from the cheaper ones. I use a mustad 9 oz(I think that is the weight) It is not on the high side or the low as far as price but it is a good hammer in my opinion. The rest of the tools, imo you would be better off buying unless you are real good at forging.

[Andrew_Belcher]

smitty88,

"SORRY I ASKED"

By all means NO! this is exactly what i was looknig for. not an argument, but a disscusion as to what the different opinion were about differnt tool brands! this has helped insurmoutably.

Calshoer,

Heartland does give a list of suggestions, i was only looking to see what everyone else uses and see what kind of experience other "working" farriers have had with the suggested tool brands!

JimBondra,

Thanks that's a good idea...i hadin't thought about that.


Thank everyone VERY much! i am defintly looknig forward to getting tools and learnnig to use them!!

Andrew

[Mark_Gough]

Two most important tools you should have, whether at school or work;

- good quality eye protection.
- good quality, steel-toed boots.

Best luck to you!

Mark

[Rick Burten]

Two most important tools you should have, whether at school or work;

- good quality eye protection.
- good quality, steel-toed boots.


To do yourself and your feet a greater favor, you should consider steel toed boots with metatarsal protection.

To cut down on the overall weight of the boots, I wear boots built on a hiking shoe platform such as:

http://workingperson.com/products/22_359_31/1/2214/Converse_Shoes:__Athletic_Met_Guard_EH_Hiking_Shoe s_C4985.html

http://workingperson.com/products/22_359_31/1/6987/Worx_Boots:_Mens_Non-Metallic_External_Met_GuardWork_Boots_5601.html

http://workingperson.com/products/22_359_31/1/558/Nautilus_Shoes:_EH__Steel_Toe_Met_Guard_Hikers_N15 12.html

I've also tried boots with an internal met. guard and I found that they do not offer near the protection as the boots with an external met. guard.

[Andrew_Belcher]

thanks everyone!

boots are something i have not skimped on...i have had a good pair of boots for a long time and they have and still are serving me well!

if i were gonig to make an apron, what kind of leather should i use?

thanks

Andrew

[Bradley-1stChoice]

thanks everyone!

boots are something i have not skimped on...i have had a good pair of boots for a long time and they have and still are serving me well!

if i were gonig to make an apron, what kind of leather should i use?

thanks

Andrew
Suede.

Leather tends to be stiff, of course not all leathers are the same.

Use a thick-ish suede for both the body and the patch.

When you have your pieces cut and ready to sew/stitch,

find a stove pipe or similar item
and lay the body of the leg piece on the stove pipe
as though it were your leg and glue the patch on where you want it.
Have the lower end of the patch where your knee will be or higher,
that way the lower end of the leg piece will drape nicely when you are wearing the chaps.

I would add two knife pockets on each side, one could hold a hoof pick

My personal preference would be a long belt end,
and two straps for each leg.

[jaridthorson]

Im not exactly sure were heartland school is located but when i went to school at shur shod in grove spring mo we bought most of our tools from the amish blacksmith and farrier shop in seamore mo. If i remember right there were a couple guys there from heartland buying tools also. He carries most brands of tools and nobody can beat his prices. If he says hes out of ge nippers ask him about the stash behind the counter.

[vthorseshoe]

All very good suggestions from everyone.

My suggestion would be start with Diamond on the expensive tools and as you develope steady customers, then upgrade to the more expensive.

Lopez and GE are basically the same. It has been my understanding that Lopez worked for (was) GE for years before going onto his own.

Good tools are an important part of doing a good efficient job and make the work easier, BUT how many farriers start out with a bang and buy all top of the line equipment and then we see them selling it all on this board and other places.

What I am saying is conserve money in area's you can until you are sure you will be in business long enough to make your investment pay you back.

It is very good you are going to school and you have chosen one I put at the top of the list, BUT GOING TO SCHOOL is no guarentee that you will be shoeing a year from leaving school.

1 person out of most classes is still shoeing 3 years from leaving school.

my 2 cents worth ;)

[Mike Ferrara]

You could always try someone elses tools to see what you like.

[smitty88]

You can have mine to try there junk:D

[clinkercjf]

A screwdriver is a chisel. Everything else is a hammer.

[Andrew_Belcher]

thank you all for your imput! another question...what would y'all suggest for a first shoeing box?...i was think of a 5 gallon bucket with PVC screwed to the inside?

thanks

Andrew

[cowboy_bc]

thank you all for your imput! another question...what would y'all suggest for a first shoeing box?...i was think of a 5 gallon bucket with PVC screwed to the inside?

thanks

Andrew

Hi all,

I have plans for a shoeing box and forge if you would like. A rubber pail with pieces of hose tie straped inside works great.

Kevin

[Andrew_Belcher]

yez please!

that would be great!

thanks

Andrew

[Gilreath Horseshoeing]

thank you all for your imput! another question...what would y'all suggest for a first shoeing box?...i was think of a 5 gallon bucket with PVC screwed to the inside?

thanks

Andrew

Personally, I would get a Nature Farms Cobra II shoeing box with shelves. Your box (is one of the things that) creates a professional image in the mind of the customer. IMO, I would not cut corners here.

[calshoer]

Get a proper box, the hundred fifty bucks or so is worth it.
Or build one from plywood . A bucket is so unprofessional looking and also becomes cluttered easily with everything that drops into the bottom. As well if you drop something small into the bottom that you need right then, you will be fishing round down there trying to get it, wasting lots of time.

[Andrew_Belcher]

i jsut found that Alvin farrier supply has a wooden shoeing box kit for $45 so i'm planning on getting that and putting some 2.5" or 3" casters on it and some kind of handle! then after school after i see what everyone else has i will make a desision on what i like and what to spend my money on!

Thanks

Andrew

[tbloomer]

Patty,

$150 was last year. That box is now $180.

BTW, I've never had a gelding or stallion step on or kick my shoeing box . . . only mares. Whazzup wid dat? :confused:

[Andrew_Belcher]

maybe the woman don't like they color of your box?

Andrew

[Frank Turley]

I made a list of tools with commentary, just to show you how we started in 1964 at the Oregon Farrier School in Corvallis. This won't really answer Andrew's question, but it allows me to reminisce. You may view it as a ha ha history lesson, if you wish. Nobody knows 10% of anything, so I welcome comments.

HOOF NIPPERS. I started wih Multi Products and later changed to Diamonds. I drew out the Diamond reins so that they were one inch longer. Both brands were OK.
CURVED JAW CLINCHERS. Hellers brand. These were good, and they were called "saddle horse clinchers" as I recall. However, my hot-shoeing mentor would not let me use them unless a horse was young and in training, or was a super sensitive horse. He made me hammer-clinch. His idea was to try to eliminate the "hole" left at the top of the clinch when clinching tongs were used. Besides, after "rolling" the clinch down, most everyone trys to tap it flat with the hammer, anyway. He said "You may as well use the hammer from the gitgo"
CLINCH GOUGE. Never heerdtell of such a thing.
CREASE NAIL PULLER. I made mine from an old pair of "battery pliers" that I ground until they fit into the crease.
PULLOFF PINCERS. I found an old pair of Hellers draft horse pulloffs. Don't laugh. They are 16½" long with acorn end reins. The jaws taper almost to a point of zero. The jaws have a large oval shape measuring inside 2 7/8" x 1 5/8". I have pulled off everything from race plates to 3-gaited shoes with them. The rivet hole got wallowed out with use, so I took them apart, trued up the holes and re-riveted.
HOOF KNIFE. We used to use Frost and Burdizzo. I eventually made one of mine.
LOOP KNIFE. No way.
DRIVING HAMMER. Hellers Racetrack; 10 ounce.
SHOEING APRON. Thick chrome tanned leather sewn for me by a saddlemaker.
TONGS. I started with Champions and Hellers, but was able to make my own after a while. My 1/2" tongs are made of W1 tool steel.
E-HEAD FOREPUNCH. In those days, I was just familiar with regular and city heads.
CREASER. Creasing wasn't as big a deal as it is now, especially in contests. We used the teacher's creaser(s) which he kept in his left hand lower desk drawer. We were required to make a specimen creased shoe. Later on, I was able to make my own creaser.
PRITCHELS. We purchased Hellers pritchels, 11" long. As time went on, I forged my own.
ROUNDING HAMMER. Hellers brand.
RASPS. Started with Nicholson and later switched to Simonds Red Tang.
RASP HANDLES. I was able to find in the "olden days" some wooden, screw-on soldering iron handles. They had internal hardened steel threads that would screw onto the rasp tangs. They were 5¼" in length with a 1½" D toward the end. Very nice.
BUTCHER BLOCK BRUSH. We hadn't access to these at the time.
3' TAPE MEASURE. We used a 1' steel rule; no mylar to burn.
ANVIL DEVIL. Never used. I had seen them in use in the 1970's, and one was apparently not tempered. It broke in half. They used to make cold hardies, but I don't think they are on the market anymore. They had an included angle of 60º and were much nicer than a devil.
SHOEING BOX. I see nowadays that some of the boxes look like R2D2. I had mine fabbed at a metal shop out of aluminum. It was not too unlike the Washoe. I cut a length of rubber hose and slit its length. The slit fit and grabbed over the near edge of the box, so the tools had a nice place to rest.
SAFETY GLASSES and EAR PLUGS. I wore neither and now I'm paying for it. I acquired hearing aids this year.
CLINCH CUTTER. I used a Hellers for a while, but I didn't like the pritchel-like projection, so I finally made one of one piece that looks like a little hatchet. It is 5½" long overall. I used an old car leaf spring for the steel. My mentor told me that the clinch cutter should be just a tiny bit on the dull side.

[Ronald Aalders]

Reading this post it struck me that nobody suggested Andrew to buy anatomy books. Way more important than the brand of tools to buy.

By the way we had to make all tools ourselves. We had to, including rasps. Obviously a lot of that turned out to be useless for daily work (some were even useless to show how that particular tool was supposed to look :D) but it helped gain respect for quality tools, and made us less dependend on specific tools. "A good shoer can shoe a horse with a brick for tools" (I never met a good shoer I guess....)

In Andrew's case a toolbox is a waste of money. Get a bucket. When you get through the first year buy yourself a toolbox for the coming years of your education.


Ronald Aalders

[DavidinGA]

Hi all,

I have plans for a shoeing box and forge if you would like. A rubber pail with pieces of hose tie straped inside works great.

Kevin

I'd like to see those shoeing box plans if you're still willing to share them.

David

[Frank Turley]

As Ronald suggests, books with methodology and anatomy are important. At our school in '64, we had Lungwitz & Adams facsimile reprint, and Cal Poly reprinted the U.S. Army manual 2-220. They were good for starters, considering the time. Since then, I've gathered a large library of shoeing and smithing books.

[cowboy_bc]

I'd like to see those shoeing box plans if you're still willing to share them.

David

Hi all,

Here it is.

Kevin

[halfmiler]

most of my tools are the tools i started out with,with the exception of my nippers,knives and rasps lol

[DavidinGA]

Hi all,

Here it is.

Kevin

Thank You
David

[NorvalWilhelm]

I made this out of some 16 gage sheet aluminum I had kicking around and pop riveted the whole thing together
http://i32.tinypic.com/2q8v96q.jpg

[smitty88]

your handy Norval

[Rick Burten]

Now if you amend that big block motor to that box, you'll really have something. :D

[Cyber Farrier]

Now THAT could be the start of a very interesting discussion.

Baron

[westtxshoer]

Very nice box.:)

[Clint Burrell]

[QUOTE=Rick Burten;174125]Now if you amend that big block motor to that box, you'll really have something. :D

Rick,
W/ a box that size,one should go w/ a small block.Leaves room for the NOS bottle and parachute. A BB like that,one would be better off to go w/ Stonewell's port-a-shop. Would have better weight transfer and handling.:D

[Red Amor]

Hey Smitty I recon that baron fella should get a job as an agitator in a washing machine
he stirs the natives more en anyone on hear ay ;)
eeehheee

Orr yeah and top shelf Novel mate bewdy ay ;)

[DavidinGA]

I made this out of some 16 gage sheet aluminum I had kicking around and pop riveted the whole thing together
http://i32.tinypic.com/2q8v96q.jpg

That's a pretty slick lookin box Norval. I sure wish I had a metal brake at home so I could make stuff like that.


Cowboy-BC--Thanks again for the directions. I didn't follow them exactly but they got me started. I didn't have a wood dowel for the handle so I just made a little tray about 3" deep and 4" wide and put it in place there. Makes a good spot for nails and knives. I just had no idea what deminsions I would need so those directions worked perfect to get me going.


David

[Frank Turley]

An expedient "brake" can be jury rigged by clamping a length of mild steel bar or timber along the edge of a layout table with the sheet metal sandwiched between. The start of the bend can be done by hand and then brought close to a finish by use of a wooden or rawhide mallet. There will be some springback. Finish after removing from the table.

[Bradley-1stChoice]

I sure wish I had a metal brake at home so I could make stuff like that.
David
Hey David
I have a 32", 3-in-1, roller/sheer/box&pan break that made my shoe box,
If you're ever up my way you could borrow it or buy it.

http://www.ujr.ca/EN/BB-3022-4022_HR.jpg

http://www.1stchoicehorseshoeing.com/images/shoe/Tools/shoe_box_edged_soft.jpg
http://www.1stchoicehorseshoeing.com/images/shoe/Tools/shoebox-full.jpg

[DavidinGA]

Bradley,

That'd be a pretty nice tool to have around for a lot of jobs but my wife is already complaining that I have too many tools that don't get used often enough. lol

As far as coming your way, that's one of the things my wife is saving for. Can you imagine she's 25 and never been out of the U.S. and only out of the S.E. part of the U.S. once. We're hoping to start traveling more as soon as I graduate college ( 3 semesters left) and Canada is one of the places she wants to go first. Hopefully, when we get up that way I'll get to visit you. I'd really like to see that shoeing trailer you've got in person.


David

[Bradley-1stChoice]

Same here my wife is always saying you haven't used that tool for a while,
Just sell it and make room . . .

:eek:

But it'll be a real cold day in Helsinki before I sell a tool. :D

My Trailer will be on the road for another week or two
Then I'll just park it in the snow bank to be . . .

. . . I do have another small trailer that I have been meaning to
finish for winter shoeing.

It is kinda funky.
It is the original Castlegar Fire Brigade Pumper Engine Trailer.
From about the 20's or 30's.
Then when Castlegar got a real fire truck, they gave the trailer to Fruitvale, and they in turn gave it to Salmo.
A couple of guys owned it and now me.
I still have the old axe hangers, and hose hangers from it.

If you make it to my neck of the woods in Canada, give a call for sure . . .

[Gary_Miller]

Same here my wife is always saying you haven't used that tool for a while,
Just sell it and make room . . . .Bradley, just turn it around. Tell your wife she has not used here bread mixer, turkey roaste, elect fry pan, waffle maker, etc. for a while so she should just sell them to make more room.:eek:

Come on man be brave.:D

[Jack Evers]

Never anger the cook.

[DavidinGA]

Bradley, just turn it around. Tell your wife she has not used here bread mixer, turkey roaste, elect fry pan, waffle maker, etc. for a while so she should just sell them to make more room.:eek:

Come on man be brave.:D

If you've told your wife that you're a braver man than I'll ever be...Or else your couch is a lot more comfy than mine. :D


Bradley, I'll surely look you up if/when we get up that way.

thanks

David

[Luna butte]

If you've told your wife that you're a braver man than I'll ever be...Or else your couch is a lot more comfy than mine. :D


i've spent the last three nights on my couch and if my wife don't change her attitude, i might stay a couple more. :)

[Bradley-1stChoice]

If you've told your wife that you're a braver man than I'll ever be...Or else your couch is a lot more comfy than mine. :D
Bradley, I'll surely look you up if/when we get up that way.
thanks
David

It took my wife a year to teach me,
That no matter what . . .

. . . She IS RIGHT

Right or wrong . . .

. . . it makes for a happy home.

'cides, all my buddy's know I'm right . . . :D

There might be a sit-com in this . . .

Everybody Loves Bradley

http://www.1stchoicehorseshoeing.com/images/shoe/humor/EveryBody-Loves-Bradley.jpg