Equi-thane question!

[HOSSBOSS]

I just picked up a new customer that has a horse that gets his shoes glued on. My question is: Is that Equi-thane "adhere' really strong? Strong enough to adhere steel shoes to the front feet? I'm gonna be using a lite steel shoe, but will it also adhere metal to metal as in a small project i need to do? Or will the bond break after awhile? I'm not a big welder & i've never used it so i'm curious! I saw that the adhere glue is used for glueing on plastics, steel & metal.

[Jason Sharer]

Hoss: Equitable will glue on steel shoes. There are a few tips that will help you.
1. the foot MUST be dry. when you're ready to glue, don't set the foot back down. Moisture will push down and the glue won't work as well.
2. You MUST use a spacer between shoe and hoof to allow for enough glue to cure properly.
3. Dry the foot before glueing, don't set down.
4. Drill at least 4 holes, 6 is better for glue to push through the shoe.
5. Do Not use acetone to clean hoof or shoe, if necessary, use denatured alcohol.

Good Luck, if done properly, the shoe should last 4-6 weeks.

[pickupgirl]

I just picked up a new customer that has a horse that gets his shoes glued on. My question is: Is that Equi-thane "adhere' really strong? Strong enough to adhere steel shoes to the front feet? I'm gonna be using a lite steel shoe, but will it also adhere metal to metal as in a small project i need to do? Or will the bond break after awhile? I'm not a big welder & i've never used it so i'm curious! I saw that the adhere glue is used for glueing on plastics, steel & metal.

Since it appears that you haven't gotten your real question answered, here is my 2 cents.

The bond between Adhere and hoof is great (assuming that the hoof is very clean and dry), but the bond between the Adhere and steel is not so good. That is why you need to drill the holes for the Adhere to go through and use a grinder on the hoof side of the shoe to ensure a clean, oxidation free surface. Even doing that I like to still use a couple nails per hoof to ensure that the shoe stays in place.

I'm not sure what your metal to metal project entails, but my guess is that the bond is not going to be good enough for what you need. Better just practice your welding. ;)

Good luck!

[SlowShoe]

I've use Adhere, superfast, Equilux and the like. Acrylics will bond better but wont be as flexable as the poly glues. Either way glueing a steel shoe on is not going to last 6 weeks in most cases. I've gotten 4 weeks tops doing it just the way described above. Some more tips

Use a CLIPPED shoe.

Get yourself some plastic stretch wrap.

http://www.twomenboxes.com/_art/moving-supplies-stretch.jpg

After you get the shoe (holes drilled and all) all glued up spacers in place, position in where you want it on the hoof and wrap it secure to the hoof with the strech wrap. start at the toe and bring the wrap around the hoof over top the heel bulbs. (So the shoe wont slide forward) wrap it a few times like that, then bring the wrap over the heals of the shoe and around the front wall of the hoof (to keep the shoe from moving back) then start wrapping TIGHT and alternating to lock the shoe in place making sure the shoe does not move. The glue WILL set up good under the plastic and the plastic will make sure the shoe does not move.

http://a967.ac-images.myspacecdn.com/images01/126/l_775bdb736a2680c46caff110efcc24a6.jpg

If you want a real good glue on shoe, nothing beats the Sigafoos. You can also try grand circuits aluminum gluez-on on rimpad cuff thingy (http://www.grandcircuitinc.com/proddetail.asp?prod=Gluz) which looks pretty promising. I should order some and give them a try.

Let us know how you do.

[Mark_Gough]

Good information and photo Josh.

Worked on one last night that required glue-ons.

The vettec adhere would not setup. Even after 15 minutes the glue was still very maleable and the shoe would shift under load.


Pulled the shoe off, cleaned up the mess and tried again.

Still no luck.

Definately made sure that both sides of the tube dispenser were working. Dispensed enough material before installing the mixing tip to ensure I was getting what appeared to be a 50/50 mix.

Shoe was flat and clean (grinder clean) on the sole surface; had drilled plenty of holes; used five spacers on each shoe; dispenser mix was right; hoof sole was clean and dry; ambient temperature was about 68f degrees, medium humidity in the barn; steel SX8 rears. Adhere tube was only a couple of weeks old and had not been previously opened or subjected to temperatures outside the norm.

Last time I used Adhere the setup happened within a couple minutes and the result was hard enough to rasp after ten minutes.

Horse ran out of patience so we gave up for the night. I'll go back and try again today with a new tube.

Have you ever used a tube of adhere that just wouldn't setup?

Mark

[J.H. shoeing]

Mark

look at the date the product was made. It is in the row of numbers and letters on the side of the cartridge. Call me and I'll explain how to read it.

[LarkinGreene]

Everyone provided good info here. If all other considerations are met, the material is likely older than the one year shelf life. Adhere normally sets in 60 seconds and is weight bearing in 3.5 to 4 mins. Check the batch code on the back part of the label. A small stamped number will look something like: 7014C8. The letter and the number at the end indicate when it was made. C translates to March since C is the third letter in the alphabet. The 8 represents the year. If your code indicates over one year old the set time will gradually get longer, though you should still be able to use it for a few months after one year. Hope this helps. -Larkin