Hard surface rod

[Michael Jay]

Hello everyone,
Please; What is the proper (best) way to apply borium-hard surface rod to shoes? Thanks.
Michael Jay

[Mike Ferrara]

I just weld it on with an oxy-acetalene torch. The same with dril tec.

[calshoer]

I have always used the rolled type borium rod, the kind that is hollow with the tungsten crystals inside. I use oxy acetelyne, heat the spot on the shoe where I want the borium to go until it begins to puddle .The begin melting the end of the rod into the puddle a little at time until I get how much I want on the shoe . ThenI "wash" the borium around on the shoe a little bit to flatten it and adhere the crystals well into the metal . (I never have had a need for applying more than that, on the few light pavemnt horses I have used it on) Patty

[NHFarrier]

I may do this the hard way, but I like to be able to spread the borium out a little more than normal (bigger than a "stud-like" spot). I buy the flux coated borium rod and cut it with a bolt cutter into 1/4" pieces. I heat the area of the shoe I want borium on in the forge. I take it out, brush it and place the borium piece on the shoe. I put a little flux on it and put it back in the forge (under the flame). When the borium starts to give, I pull it out and stir it, brush it and let it air cool. I like to do it this way because I can spread it out a little further on the heel area for more traction. I can also control the amount of borium applied to the shoe and make each area close to equal.

Amy

[Jack Evers]

First we need to define what we're referring to. Although we all tend to use the term Borium to apply to all types of tungsten carbide applications, Horseshoe Borium is really a Stoody trademark referring to the type of rod Patty refers to -- a steel tube filled with tungsten carbide crystals. This must be applied with a torch as Patty describes. As a hint use a carburizing flame (excess acetalyene with a distinct feather on the flame).
The other type of rod supplied by drill-tec and others is a solid rod composed of a braze metal matrix with tungsten carbide crystals in the matrix. This is my rod of choice although I've gone almost entirely to the drive in studs and rarely use rods anymore. It will melt in the forge and can be applied as Amy describes (this is also my method) or applied with a torch as Patty decribes. If You use a torch, remember that the bronze matrix contains zinc and you need good ventilation.

Jack

[Bill Adams]

A trick I learned when useing the brass drill-tec type on drafts, is to clean and rough up the spot on the shoe with a rasp or grinder, put on borax right away, back in the fire, then with the torch I put a light puddle with regular brazing rod as it's easyer to control (for me). Then I put the drill-tec on. In the sheet metal trade this is called "tinning", to put sodder on one or both parts befor conecting them.
My $0.02,
Bill

[FrankLaursen]

On the drafts and endurance horses, I do use both types and when I first started appling these materials I found that they were breaking off When I asked Mike (my master farrier that I apprenticed with).He had a unique way of finding out what I was doing wrong He told me to set up as if I was a customers (mike like to make work go figure :D )place so out comes the oxy/act and was ready to at it When he says "wheres your forge?" He then explained to in great detail how the metal has to be heated in the forge to get the nice clean surface and create the tempature for good adhesion (spelling?) then got my torch and applied both materials (drill-tec and borium)he said by doing it this way the metal cools slower up to the point of the of the material of choice so it does not cyrstalize it and he demostrated it by doing it the one way then his way by beating it with a rounding hammer on edge and it break away when only done with the torch but would stand up every time with the forge heating the shoe first then applying the borium or dril tec
Frank

[Bill Adams]

I meant to say that too, Frank, the slag comes off easer when hot, and you use less oxy-act. I dont quench when done eather.
Bill