© Jerry Trapani, CF
illustrated by Rita Trapani
published in the American Farriers Journal, May/June 1996
reprinted here with permission of the author
What's the most annoying item farriers have to deal with besides not getting paid?
Yes, it's that dreaded call on a Friday or Saturday night. The horse you shod just a couple days ago (who's always at the end of your route) pulled off the egg bar shoe you made--and no one can find it.
I shoe about 25 to 30 horses per week in a 50-mile radius from my home. I used to average about two lost shoes a week in the spring and summer. But I've reduced this number to about one shoe a month or less since I took a few easy steps and a few extra minutes.
I live in East Islip, New York, where spring is wet and muddy. The ground on Long Island in the summer is rock hard and the horses stomp all day at flies.
The ideas I'm presenting here are certainly not new, but they're good practices that all farriers can use to help prevent lost shoes.
I believe in the concepts of "balanced" hoof trimming as described throughout the years by Dr. Ric Redden, Bruce Daniels, Dave Duckett, Gene Ovnicek, Grant Moon and many other farriers.
Their principles combine to produce a naturally balanced hoof with a broad toe, shortened breakover, good heel coverage and judicious trimming of the frog and sole.
By following these principles, you can shorten breakover time without compromising the length of the toe and the depth of the sole.
After just a few shoeings, I've found a tremendous difference in the hoof. Pads can be eliminated and the quarters where we place the nails become stronger, resist splitting and hold nails much better.
Most of all, the horses move soundly and comfortably, and your clients will notice the difference.
Three-Step Process
The first thing you can do to help prevent lost shoes is to make sure
the shoe is the correct size for the hoof. We all know what short-shoeing
can cause---underrun heels, bruises, corns and cracks. Choose a shoe large
enough to cover the heels.
SHAPING THE SHOE: This diagram shows an example of finished horseshoes. On the front shoe, notice the broadness of the toe and how the edge is knocked down. The hind shoe should be set back half the thickness of the toe wall. |
Then, box the heels with your hammer. Hold the hammer at about a 30-degree angle and strike the shoe from the last nail hole back to the end of the heel.
BOXING THE HEELS: When boxing the heels of the shoe, hold the hammer at a 30-degree angle and strike the shoe from the last nail hole back to the end of the heel. To make a slight roll in the shoe, roll the toe on the horn of the anvil instead of on the edge of the face, as illustrated in the second diagram. |
If you want to make it look more finished, just rasp the shoe smooth in your step vise. You don't need a fancy sanding or grinding machine.
Secondly, fit the toe very boldly and get the breakover back where it belongs. Get rid of the excess toe.
Again, take your hammer and knock the toe down from the first nail around to the other side. This will create the breakover that the horse will achieve in a couple of weeks. Why not help him and yourself?
If you want to create more breakover when you trim the hoof, take your rasp and roll the toe a bit from pillar to pillar.
Then go to the anvil and roll the toe of the shoe on the horn, not over the edge of the face. This will give you a gentle roll rather than a harsh drop like a rocker toe.
This method also works on flat feet or worn-down toes because a little crown is created on the back side of the web to provide relief on the sole. This can be done cold with up to a size three shoe.
Finally, on the hind feet, blunt the toe of the shoe, fit it full at the pillars and make sure you cover the heels again.
Now set the shoe back about one-half the thickness of the wall at the toe. Don't dub off the toe wall--just round the edge as if you were leaving it barefoot. This will give the hoof a good base for breakover.
A pointed-toe shoe allows the foot uneven breakover and could lead to interference, twisting, and, of course, pulling that front shoe.
Using these simple techniques will only add about two to three extra minutes to your next shoeing job. Isn't that better than spending at least 30 minutes driving back out to replace that pesky shoe?
Jerry Trapani is an AFA Certified Farrier located at East Islip, New York, USA.
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