
Foal Feet Care
© F. Thomas Breningstall
first published in Rural Heritage draft-animal magazine
Handle your foals from day one. By the time a foal
is four weeks old it should lead, stand tied, stand to be groomed, and--most
important to those of us who have to trim its feet--stand to have its feet
picked up. All four feet must be picked up, inspected, and cleaned daily. When
time comes for the foal to have its feet trimmed, there's no need for a fight.
As a farrier I can tell you that none of us likes going to your farm for the
sole purpose of getting beaten up by your ill-mannered, untrained equines. If
you can't find 15 minutes a day to handle and train your baby horses, you have
no business having baby horses. There I got that off my chest. I'm sorry, I
didn't mean to yell at you.
I can never understand why people tell me they handle their young horses,
but I can tell by how nervous and afraid the little ones are that the only
handling they have had was a pat on the nose a couple of times, or worse yet -
a beating. Please handle your foals enough so they think you're part of their
daily life. Be firm only when you need to be, to keep you or the horse from
getting hurt.
The condition of the foal's feet should be evaluated when the foal is four
to six weeks of age. A veterinarian or farrier is the best source for this
appraisal, but if you are independent-minded, here's what to look for:
All four feet should point forward and toe-out just a little. The knee and
hock should be in line with the rest of the leg, from the point of the shoulder
and the pin bone at the haunches to the bottom of the hoof. Babies are often
cow-hocked and knock-kneed, which is normal to an extent. Over-correcting
normal toe-out in babies by trimming the hoof lower on the outside often
results in pigeon-toed adult horses.
The point of the frog should be centered in the sole of hoof. The hoof wall
at the toe should be the same slope as the pastern when viewed from the side,
with the foot on the ground and the horse standing and squared up. When you
look at the hoof from the front, the hair line and bottom of the hoof should be
horizontal.
The foal's hoof should look much like a full-grown hoof, just smaller. Take
care of any twist or deformity as soon as possible. For this you may need
professional help from a farrier or a veterinarian. With so many possible
problems, and so many ways to solve them, sometimes we all need help from
somebody else. For the health of the horse, it's okay to ask.
To trim the soft baby hoof, all you need are a sharp hoof knife and a rasp.
The baby hoof will grow out in 5 to 10 months, to be replaced with stronger
hoof growth requiring hoof nippers to be trimmed. Trim the hooves on a regular
schedule. Every 4 to 10 weeks is normal, depending on hoof growth and wear. Two
important rules: Don't cut the hoof wall deeper than the sole. Don't cut away
the sole and frog-- only clean up the loose stuff.
Here's my method for picking up the front feet:
Run your hand from the neck down the shoulder to the forearm, knee, and cannon
bone to the fetlock. Most of the time when you lightly tug the fetlock, the
foot will come up. For young horses in training or with stubborn equines,
babies or adults, I press firmly with the tips of my fingers under the fetlock,
just beneath the ergot, then release the pressure when the foot comes up. Most
horses will respond to this pressure and give up the foot willingly. Remember
that getting the foot off the ground is only half the training. Standing still
on three legs to be worked on is the other half. Please practice.
On the hind feet, I stay close to the animal's side and, with the hand
closest to the horse, run down from the flank to the inside of the cannon bone
to the inside of the fetlock. I then pull the foot forward and walk it back.
Sometimes I use slight pressure with my shoulder to shift the horse's weight
off the foot I'm asking for.
While holding the rear leg in your lap, or the front foot between your
knees, tap lightly on the hoof with a hammer or stone, as a farrier does while
shoeing. This little exercise will get the horse accustomed to the feel and
sounds of being shod.
I'm an advocate of not shoeing before the horse is two years old. Early hoof
growth should not be restricted by shoes. If a horse has a problem that shoes
can help, or if you are advised by a veterinarian, then shoeing is okay.
The youngest horse I ever put a shoe on was five
weeks old. Its right front leg was badly twisted. Veterinarian Dr. Carlin asked
me if anything could help. With this poor foal on the ground and tied up so it
wouldn't hurt us or itself, I made a shoe with a heel calk on the inside and
nailed it on, then put the hoof in a cast. It worked, but the shoe was left on
only four weeks so as not to restrict hoof growth.
We are responsible for the care of our horses from their birth to their
death. Good hoof care is one of the most important aspects of keeping a horse
healthy. So get up off your rump and go out to the barn and play with your
babies.
F. Thomas Breningstall is an AFA and MHA certified full-time farrier living
in Fowlerville, Michigan. His column "Hoof & Hammer" appears
regularly in
RURAL
HERITAGE draft-animal magazine, and is reprinted here with permission.
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